| ELECTRIC COOLING
FANS |
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| I began tinkering with
electric primary fan conversions in Volvo 240s back around 1997 after
having some poor success keeping my '84 245 Turbo from
running too hot during warm Southern California months using the stock
fan. I then
developed this page in
1999 to share the info I found and I have been updating it on occasion.
Basically, this
page
will outline some pretty simple and inexpensive primary
electric
fan conversion ideas for the Volvo 240 and 240 Turbo. Some of these
ideas also work for the 740, however it should be noted the
740 Turbo has less room between the radiator and water pump pulley and
the GM fan shown in this page probably won't fit in the space. With this conversion, the belt driven mechanical fan and fan clutch is eliminated, and an electric "puller" fan is mounted in it's place. While there are many options for your Volvo when it comes to keeping cool, this is just one and is presented at face value with no specific claims of magical performance, other than my own experiences and those of others who have done similar projects. |
| I would recomend reading the following
posts before starting an electric fan conversion. The first is a transcript of a discussion with a Volvo Technician at a local Volvo dealership and it covers some material on an electric fan conversion (and reasons not to do it). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=639874 Shop talk with a Volvo Mechanic. Should you still decide to go ahead with the conversion, this second link covers a lot of relevant information and some material on how to perform an electric fan conversion using a GM puller fan (behind the radiator, towards the engine), but much of the information is relevant to a pusher fan as well. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=692614 Electric Fan info for GM 4-cylinder engines. No matter what, make sure that your fan is capable of turning itself on reliably if your engine starts to overheat. Since the red block engines found in our 240 Volvos use an iron block and an aluminum head, the expansion rates of the metals are different. At overheating temperatures, the expanding head will literally push against the end head bolts (at cylinders 1 and 4) and warp itself, bowing upwards. This warping will cause a loss of compression, head gasket failure, and an expensive repair bill to have the head machined (assuming it is still within correctable tollerances). Before you chastise Volvo for using an aluminum head, they chose it with a reason. Valve temperatures are greatly reduced by the thermal conduction properties of the aluminum head, and given proper cooling system maintance, the head should last as long as the block. With that said, there are two primary reasons for performing an Electric Fan Conversion. The first is to reduce the engine drag at highway speeds. I don't think anybody has any actual dyno-tested measurements, but in theory you should gain at least 1 to 2 horespower at highway speeds. (Remember, the fan does not match engine RPMs unless your radiator is overheated. The viscus clutch keeps it at lower speeds when additional cooling is unnecessary.) The second reason would be to reduce the amount of stress on the waterpump. 240s can go through water pumps faster than a typical car and it's a good idea to change them as preventative maintenance. The loads placed on the water pump bearings by the alternator and a huge fan shorten its potential service life. |
Excuse the photo
quality. This is a very old pic. This is the first electric fan
conversion I did back in 1997
for my 245 Turbo. I also used this fan for several conversions of
friend's 240s and one I know of is still going strong and cooling
flawlessly more than 10 years later.
A
16 inch diameter fan in the same typical version can also be found in
som GM 6 cylinder cars. The outer dimensions will be the same.
This is important because this shroud is the pefect size to fit
directly onto the typical Volvo 240/740 radiator.
All four of the original plastic
mounting ears on the shroud need to be removed for fitment to a Volvo
radiator.
A hacksaw does just fine here. In this photo the ears have
already been cut off, but I left them next to the fan so you could see
where they came from.
Since this fan will be mounted to the
radiator, you'll need some mounting hardware. The simplest method
will be with some 2 inch sheet metal screws, washers and these funny
little sheet metal nuts. The screws I used were the counter-sunk
type with some counter-sunk finishing washers. Most any will work
though.
This
photo shows an existing hole in the top flange of the radiator.
All Volvo radiators will have these holes for mounting of the original
fan shroud. The sheet metal nut can be used here. You will
then need to drill a small hole in the GM fan shroud directly over the
original hole in the radiator.
The plan is for the new fan shroud to be fastened to the radiator by
four such sheet metal screws, two at the top and two at the
bottom. You may need to drill the holes in the bottom flange if
there aren't already suitable holes.
Here we have the new fan mounted to the
radiator.
This can now be placed in the car as one unit and mounted as any Volvo
radiator is mounted.
To
make this fan work in your car, you have several options. You can
purchase an all-in-one fan controller with a temperature probe that
goes into the radiator fins. You can use a sensor mounted in your
radiator if it has one. For an assortment of wiring diagram
options, click here (pdf file).
CONVERSION
#2
-- Volvo 940/850 15 inch Fan
2009
Conversion for my 242: This is a very
popular
fan used in many conversions. It's found in 1992 and later Volvo
940 and 960 models as well as all 850s. There is a similar fan
found in the S70 and S80, however the S80 models I have seen feature a
smaller,
more compact motor. I'm not sure if it's capacity is less.
All of these fans are two-speed models, with low speed being about 50%
of high speed. The motor will have three wires; one ground and
two
hot wires (one for low and one for high). A two speed
circuit may be used when you install one of these or you may use just
the high circuit only. My installation used the the high speed only. 
This fan is about 4
inches deep from the motor to the furthest point on the fan. The fan shown in
the far left has been removed from the fan shroud. After
being removed from the original shroud, you'll find that it is
about 17.5 inches across at
the outer ring, which is why is fits so well into the Volvo RWD
mechanical fan
shrouds, which have 18 inch openings . The
actual fan
blade portion on this fan is
only 15 inches. 
One
cool thing about this fan is it simply unbolts from the original
shroud. No cutting or shopping needed. The 940 shroud is too wide for a
240 or 740 radiator, so it should be tossed out for this conversion,
although
some
people have cut them down to fit. The shroud used in the photos here is a 240
Turbo
(Intercooled) shroud. The inside diameter of this shroud is 18
inches. This particular shroud will only correctly fit the 240 Turbo. It will not clear
the auto transmission cooling lines in
a 240 non-turbo or a 740. Since this
shroud sits further back in a Turbo Intercooled car (because of the
intercooler), some extra work was required
to get the fan to sit deep enough into the shroud to clear the water
pump. It was a tight fit when done.
The above fan pulls
a
lot of amps upon start up when using the high speed circuit only.
Because I wanted to avoid sudden, hard
current draws in my charging system when this fan came on, I sought out
a high-tech fan controller that offered a "soft-start" feature for the
fan
motor. I chose the Delta
Current Control FK-50P. This
is an all-in-one controller and it works smoothly, so no relays or
other sensors are needed. When it's time for
the fan to come on, it comes on
slowly and smoothly, beginning with about 10% speed until more speed is
needed
to control temperatures. It regulates your radiator temperature by
smoothly increasing or reducing fan speed, instead of on, off, on, off,
like the old school method. While not cheap, it is a very nice
device. http://www.dccontrol.comCONVERSION
#3
-- Ford Thunderbird SC 17 inch Fan
May 2010 conversion
for my 242:
This fan is only found in the T-Bird SC (with supercharged
6 cylinder) made in the late 1980's to mid-1990's. The circular
portion
on the shroud is 17.5 inches across, so after some chopping, as seen in
these photos, it fits very well into
the 18 inch opening of the Volvo 740 Turbo fan
shroud. I sought out this fan because after using a heavy duty
tropical fan clutch for many years in my 242 Turbo, I was spoiled by
how
great it cooled. I tried the 940 fan above for a while. I was disappointed. It did not cool as
quickly or as efficiently as I liked. I believe this
disapointment was because the 15
inch fan
was sort of a bottleneck and the volume of flow through the radiator
was reduced compared to the heavy duty mechanical clutch fan. It was
easy to see a difference on uphill grades, especially with the A/C on.
Here is the Ford fan next to the 740 Turbo shroud I
used
to mount it in.
The Ford shroud needed to be cut down,
separating the fan and circular ring that was then mounted into the
Volvo
shroud. I used a friction cutting wheel to trim the Ford shroud,
which worked ok... not
the best job. A sawzall with a fine blade would have worked much
better on this plastic.

Here is the
in-progress assembly and completed fan. The last pic shows it mounted
in my 242 Turbo. The
depth of this unit from the fan motor to the front of the fan is only
3.75
inches (a little shallower than the 940 fan). This is a
two-speed
fan, like the 940 fan, except this one is much, much more powerful. The
low speed on this fan probably pulls at least as much air as the high
speed on a
940 fan. I have read that the high speed on this fan pulls
between 35 and
40 amps when running continuously. So this is NOT a fan for a
light-weight charging
system.
A large capacity alternator (100 amp), heavy cables to the
fan motor and a high capacity relay
(50 to 70 amp) would be a good recommendation. For an assortment of wiring diagram
options, including two-speed circuits, click here (pdf file).
For my installation, I used the Delta Current Control unit shown
above,
controlling the fan high-speed circuit.