Ok . . . . So I thought I would put together a page to
of all the hydraulic clutch parts I have put in my 240.
Useful info. Maybe it will help you. Nothing here is for sale (at least
I'll back up a bit
before getting to my hydraulic clutch stuff.
This is the clutch I put into my 245 way back in 2004 when I first
installed a T5 transmission into my old 245. It was custom made
for me by Clutchnet in SoCal
because nothing else they had in an 8.5 inch clutch would hold the
torque of my 2.6 liter stroker motor.
The pressure plate was assembled using two standard spring sets stacked
together. The result was a clutch with 3000 lbs of clamping
force. It was later offered to the public by Clutchnet because it was such as
simple, reliable design. The friction disc I used was nothing
special. Simple organic.
The reason I mention all this is because it will help you understand
why this clutch has a tendency to snap clutch
cables. And long before they would snap, they'd require nearly
attention with adjustments because of stretching. Not good stuff.
Ok, so back just a few years ago when I installed the T5 trans in my
242, I went with
the same clutch. I know there are now better clutch setups
get around to trying one someday. For now, this is what I
have. So after a few snapped cables, I knew I needed to upgrade
to hydraulic. The initial
hydraulic upgrade was completed in 2011.
This is the Volvo 260 clutch master cylinder I used, Volvo PN 1205729, manufactured by
Fag. It was used
in manual trans 264s in North America and in all manual trans 240s in
the UK and Australia because they were right hand drive. It was
still available new (shocker) when I started buying these parts in
It is pretty much no longer available now, with few exceptions (big
money). You can find them used and I think rebuild kits are still
available if you do.
So then I needed a clutch hose and a slave cylinder. I chose the
shown hose and slave. The parts in this photo are manual trans 740
parts. Note the
different looking master cylinder. 740s used a master cylinder with a
remote reservoir. And the length of this master makes is loo long to
fit in a 240. The fender gets in the way of a long master
NOTE: The hose thread
in the Volvo master cylinder is 12 x
Same for the thread pitch in the 740 slave cylinder. If you
have a hose made by your local hydraulic hose shop, the length is about 38 inches, but anything
above about 30 inches will fit just fine.
The inner piston diameter for both the master and slave is 19 mm (0.75
As I mentioned, a short master cylinder is important in a 240.
Close fender. Little room.
740 hose and slave cylinder are a perfect fit.
circular mount on an M46 bell housing is designed to hold the cable end
or a slave cylinder. This slave is Volvo
PN 8601783 (older PN 6843913). It's still available from a
sources. I believe there are
earlier Volvo bellhousings that have a different configuration and it
may not fit. You're
on your own with those.
<<< And you'll need this external snap ring (AKA:
external circlip, retaining ring) to keep the slave
the mount. It's Volvo PN
914463. Inside diameter is 30 mm (1 3/16 inch or 1.187 inch).
Converting from a cable to hydraulic clutch requires that you have a
compatible bell housing. This is a later type M46 ot M47 bell
housing. One part that gives it away as a later type is the
opening (top-left in first pic) for a crank position sensor, which came
on 1989 and later cars. That's not really important for this
information. The important thing is that the bell housing has the pivot ball mounting hole for
a hydraulic clutch setup. There are some early M46 bell housings
do not have this hole.
You won't necessarily need a bell housing that has a mount for a crank
sensor unless you're using an engine management system that requires it. <<<
The top clutch fork is a typical cable type. The bottom one is
hydraulic type from a 740. Any typical 740 clutch fork is
I found a used 260 hydraulic pedal and fitted it into my existing
manual trans pedal box. It's a bit longer than the cable pedal
and mounts in different holes in the box, which were already there in
Finding one of these wasn't too difficult. Parts like these can
be found in the Turbobricks for sale section or by placing a wanted ad
in the wanted section: http://forums.turbobricks.com/
Moving up to 2017. After more than 5
years the 260 master cylinder began failing. The seal began
leaking when under pressure. This may have more to do with the
heavy clutch, but it could also have happened because it was a 30 plus
year old NOS part when I bought it. I could have decided to
rebuild it, but I thought the chances of it holding up to my heavy
clutch were low. So I decided to try a different master
cylinder. There are a number of choices. I will show you a
few I considered.
master cylinder you choose, be sure to choose the correct inner piston
size. Most aftermarket master cylinders will give you several
size choices. Since I was replacing one with a 0.75 inch (19 mm)
that's the size I would be looking for.
master cylinder from Wilwood may be a good choice.
It's certainly small enough to fit in a 240. I did not care for
the hose outlet being on top like this.
Here's a comparison photo of three master cylinders. Left end: Original Volvo 260 Fag
Middle: Tilton 75 Series.
Definitely a compact one. Wilwood has a nearly identical model
called Wilwood Compact.
Right end: Wilwood. This one is
sadly too long to fit in a 240. It hits the fender.
<<< I chose the Tilton 75 Series.
Soon after getting it I discovered that there was an unexpected
problem. The 240 firewall sheet metal above where the master
cylinder bolts on interferes with the
reservoir because the reservoir is positioned so far to the rear. The
reservoir hits the firewall before the mounting flange does. You can
shake your head in disbelief all you want. Yes, It's true.
solution would have been a 1/2 inch spacer shaped like the mounting
flange to move this thing 1/2 inch from the firewall, but such a spacer
did not exist.
<<< So my solution was to use a couple 1/2 inch round
and longer bolts I had on hand. There's one in this photo. Not
the most elegant solution,
but it gets the job done just fine. Problem averted.
Then it was time to have a new hose made. I took the master and slave
cylinders down to a local hydraulic hose shop. Keep in mind that
most hose shops are used to making hoses for heavy equipment and they
may or may not be experienced with hot rod stuff.
The Volvo 260 master and 740 slave both have a thread pitch of 12 x 1.0
mm. The new Tilton has 3/8-24 thread pitch, same as AN -3. The
came with a couple adapter fittings. One was that double male brass
-3 flare fitting in the photo. The hose shop needed to use JIC fittings
and hose since that's what they had. They ended up using that double
along with an adapter fitting they supplied stepping it up to AN -4 to
mate with a new hose end, a 45 degree
JIC (-4) female swivel fitting
that was crimped to -4 high pressure Golden21/ISO 3000 psi hose.
On the slave cylinder end the hose shop supplied a male JIC (AN -4) to
(12 x 1.0 mm) adapter (with bound
washer) that mates to the straight
JIC female swivel fitting the shop crimped onto the other end of the
Total length of the hose when completed was about 38
inches. Cost was about $60.
This is a bound washer if
you're curious about that. It has a rubber o-ring embedded in
it. It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used.
This rod is going to need some adjustment. For my use it needed
be shortened almost 1/2 inch compared to when it was used with the 260
master. The threads allow a small adjustment, but for the
adjustment I needed, the forward rod had to be shortened a small amount
(maybe 1/8 inch)
using a bench grinder.
Installation completed. Pics below. <<<
To those of you who didn't believe me that the spacers were needed to
fit this master cylinder, have a close look.
When it comes time to bleeding brake or clutch hydraulics, nothing
beats the Motive Power Bleeder. I won one of these many years ago
in a Volvo Davis Meet raffle and it has served me well for years and
years. DIY bleeding with no need for a helper.
Perfect. About $50 if you aren't a lucky raffle winner.