Volvo 240 Hydraulic Clutch
and Stuff

     UPDATED: April 28, 2017                       CONTACT       
Payments and Policies
New Items
Cool Volvo Products 240 Modes & Fixes
Volvo Stickers Volvo Prancing Moose Stickers
Volvo Wire Harnesses Volvo Harness Parts, Terminals, Connectors.
Volvo Underhood, Body and Chassis Sticker and Labels Other Car Stickers Volvo Relays and Sensors.
Volvo 960 coil harness repairs.
Volvo 240 Window Scrapers Volvo 740/940 Window Scrapers 740, 760, 780 Turbo Boost Faces
Volvo Custom Black or White Faces.
Volvo Adjustable Voltage Regulators Prancing Moose, Volvo R-SPORT Horn Buttons, replica Alpina horn buttons
740, 940 odometer repair gears and instructions.
Volvo 240 Odometer Repair Gears and Instructions.
Volvo Group A Racing Electric Fan Diagrams
Volvo tropical fan clutches
Modified 240s Side Markers on 240s and 740s
SoCal Area Salvage Yards
Unleaded Race Fuel at the PUMP
B26FT Stroker Build
Volvo Vacuum Diagrams
Dave's 245 Specs Used Volvo Stuff
240 big brakes
R-Sport apparel from Cafe Press
Prancing Moose Apparel from Cafe Press Favorite Links

Ok . . . .  So I thought I would put together a page to keep track
of all the hydraulic clutch parts I have put in my 240. 
Useful info. Maybe it will help you. Nothing here is for sale (at least from me). 

I'll back up a bit before getting to my hydraulic clutch stuff. 
<<< This is the clutch I put into my 245 way back in 2004 when I first installed a T5 transmission into my old 245.  It was custom made for me by Clutchnet in SoCal because nothing else they had in an 8.5 inch clutch would hold the torque of my 2.6 liter stroker motor. 

<<< The pressure plate was assembled using two standard spring sets stacked together.  The result was a clutch with 3000 lbs of clamping force.  It was later offered to the public by Clutchnet because it was such as simple, reliable design.  The friction disc I used was nothing special. Simple organic.

The reason I mention all this is because it will help you understand why this clutch has a tendency to snap clutch cables.  And long before they would snap, they'd require nearly constant attention with adjustments because of stretching. Not good stuff.

Ok, so back just a few years ago when I installed the T5 trans in my 242, I went with the same clutch.  I know there are now better clutch setups available. I'll get around to trying one someday.  For now, this is what I have.  So after a few snapped cables, I knew I needed to upgrade to hydraulic.  The initial hydraulic upgrade was completed in 2011.

<<< This is the Volvo 260 clutch master cylinder I used, Volvo PN 1205729, manufactured by Fag.  It was used in manual trans 264s in North America and in all manual trans 240s in the UK and Australia because they were right hand drive.  It was still available new (shocker) when I started buying these parts in 2011.  It is pretty much no longer available now, with few exceptions (big money). You can find them used and I think rebuild kits are still available if you do. 

<<< So then I needed a clutch hose and a slave cylinder.  I chose the shown hose and slave. The parts in this photo are manual trans 740 parts. Note the different looking master cylinder. 740s used a master cylinder with a remote reservoir. And the length of this master makes is loo long to fit in a 240.  The fender gets in the way of a long master cylinder. 

NOTE: The hose thread pitch in the Volvo master cylinder is 12 x 1.0 mm.
Same for the thread pitch in the 740 slave cylinder.  If you decide to have a hose made by your local hydraulic hose shop, the length is about 38 inches, but anything above about 30 inches will fit just fine.

The inner piston diameter for both the master and slave is 19 mm (0.75 inch).

As I mentioned, a short master cylinder is important in a 240. Close fender. Little room.

The 740 hose and slave cylinder are a perfect fit. 

The circular mount on an M46 bell housing is designed to hold the cable end or a slave cylinder.  This slave is Volvo PN 8601783 (older PN 6843913).  It's still available from a number of sources. I believe there are earlier Volvo bellhousings that have a different configuration and it may not fit.  You're on your own with those.

And you'll need this external snap ring (AKA: external circlip, retaining ring) to keep the slave locked in the mount.  It's Volvo PN 914463.  Inside diameter is 30 mm (1 3/16 inch or 1.187 inch).

<<< Converting from a cable to hydraulic clutch requires that you have a compatible bell housing.  This is a later type M46 ot M47 bell housing.  One part that gives it away as a later type is the opening (top-left in first pic) for a crank position sensor, which came on 1989 and later cars.  That's not really important for this information. The important thing is that the bell housing has the pivot ball mounting hole for a hydraulic clutch setup.  There are some early M46 bell housings that do not have this hole. You won't necessarily need a bell housing that has a mount for a crank position sensor unless you're using an engine management system that requires it.

<<< The top clutch fork is a typical cable type.  The bottom one is the hydraulic type from a 740. Any typical 740 clutch fork is perfect. 

<<< I found a used 260 hydraulic pedal and fitted it into my existing manual trans pedal box.  It's a bit longer than the cable pedal and mounts in different holes in the box, which were already there in my pedal box.

Finding one of these wasn't too difficult. Parts like these can occasionally be found in the Turbobricks for sale section or by placing a wanted ad in the wanted section: 

There are some Turbobricks threads in which people have made their own hydraulic pedals or modified a cable pedal.  That sort of work was beyond my skills.
Here's one:

Moving up to 2017. After more than 5 years the 260 master cylinder began failing.  The seal began leaking when under pressure.  This may have more to do with the heavy clutch, but it could also have happened because it was a 30 plus year old NOS part when I bought it.  I could have decided to rebuild it, but I thought the chances of it holding up to my heavy clutch were low.  So I decided to try a different master cylinder.  There are a number of choices.  I will show you a few I considered.

Whichever master cylinder you choose, be sure to choose the correct inner piston size.  Most aftermarket master cylinders will give you several size choices.  Since I was replacing one with a 0.75 inch (19 mm) piston, that's the size I would be looking for.

<<< This master cylinder from Wilwood may be a good choice.
It's certainly small enough to fit in a 240.  I did not care for the hose outlet being on top like this.

<<< Here's a comparison photo of three master cylinders. 
Left end: Original Volvo 260 Fag

Middle: Tilton 75 Series. Definitely a compact one.  Wilwood has a nearly identical model called Wilwood Compact.

Right end: Wilwood. This one is sadly too long to fit in a 240.  It hits the fender.

<<< I chose the Tilton 75 Series. 
Soon after getting it I discovered that there was an unexpected problem.  The 240 firewall sheet metal above where the master cylinder bolts on interferes with the reservoir because the reservoir is positioned so far to the rear. The reservoir hits the firewall before the mounting flange does. You can shake your head in disbelief all you want. Yes, It's true.

A perfect solution would have been a 1/2 inch spacer shaped like the mounting flange to move this thing 1/2 inch from the firewall, but such a spacer did not exist.  

So my solution was to use a couple 1/2 inch round spacers and longer bolts I had on hand. There's one in this photo.  Not the most elegant solution, but it gets the job done just fine. Problem averted.

<<< Then it was time to have a new hose made. I took the master and slave cylinders down to a local hydraulic hose shop.  Keep in mind that most hose shops are used to making hoses for heavy equipment and they may or may not be experienced with hot rod stuff. 

Master Cylinder:
The Volvo 260 master and 740 slave both have a thread pitch of 12 x 1.0 mm. The new Tilton has 3/8-24 thread pitch, same as AN -3.  The Tilton master came with a couple adapter fittings. One was that double male brass -3 flare fitting in the photo. The hose shop needed to use JIC fittings and hose since that's what they had. They ended up using that double male flare along with an adapter fitting they supplied stepping it up to AN -4 to mate with a new hose end, a 45 degree JIC (-4) female swivel fitting that was crimped to -4 high pressure Golden21/ISO 3000 psi hose. 

Slave Cylinder:
On the slave cylinder end the hose shop supplied a male JIC (AN -4) to metric (12 x 1.0 mm) adapter (with bound washer) that mates to the straight JIC female swivel fitting the shop crimped onto the other end of the hose. 

Total length of the hose when completed was about 38 inches.  Cost was about $60.

<<< This is a bound washer if you're curious about that.  It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it.  It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used.

<<< This rod is going to need some adjustment.  For my use it needed to be shortened almost 1/2 inch compared to when it was used with the 260 master.  The threads allow a small adjustment, but for the adjustment I needed, the forward rod had to be shortened a small amount (maybe 1/8 inch) using a bench grinder.

Installation completed. Pics below.
<<< To those of you who didn't believe me that the spacers were needed to fit this master cylinder, have a close look.   

<<< When it comes time to bleeding brake or clutch hydraulics, nothing beats the Motive Power Bleeder.  I won one of these many years ago in a Volvo Davis Meet raffle and it has served me well for years and years.  DIY bleeding with no need for a helper.  Perfect.  About $50 if you aren't a lucky raffle winner.

AN Thread Wikipedia:
Useful discussion treads: