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Volvo Engine Wire Harnesses
Focusing Mainly on 1980 to 1987 Volvos
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Volvo 960 (6 cyl) HARNESS ISSUES... Click Here

Custom Engine Harnesses for special projects, LH 2.2 or 2.4 conversions, turbo, Megasquirt
CLICK HERE FOR INFO

INTRODUCTION
VOLVO ENGINE HARNESS PART NUMBER COLLECTION BELOW,  CLICK HERE
I'm Dave. I have been a Volvo hobbyist since 1988. Soon after I discovered that the wire insulation of Volvo engine wire harnesses (specifically 1980-1987 Volvos) began decomposing a number of years after being sold, began tinkering with them, rebuilding them, pulling used ones from salvage yards and installing them in my own cars are friends' cars.  I have lots of home-mechanic experience playing with the 240 and 740 and I have owned a number of them. After many years now, I can say I know a lot about 240 and 740 ENGINE WIRE HARNESSES. 

Beginning in the 1990's, I began spending a lot of time my local salvage yards searching for wrecked Volvos with obvious recent new engine harness replacements. A new engine harness was pretty easy to spot back then.  They weren't falling apart for one.  I started salvaging these nearly new replacement engine wire harnesses and I began offering them to people who needed them for their Volvos. I made a little profit while charging a fraction of what Volvo charged for a new one.  Over the years I have recycled well over a thousand exceptional condition used harnesses
from wrecked Volvos.  In 1998 I built this web page and I have gradually added to it and used it ever since to share my years of research on Volvo engine harnesses.  There is a lot of info here now and there are some helpful links below to help you navigate.  Feel free to contact me if you have questions and I'll do my best to help.  
Thanks, Dave Barton
 

VOLVO ENGINE HARNESS F.A.Q.'s... Please read if you have questions

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240 Harnesses (USA models)

  260 (V6) Harnesses (USA models)
740/760/780 Harnesses (USA models)
240 Harnesses for EUROPEAN Volvos
700 Harnesses for EUROPEAN Volvos
For European customers, some harnesses may be available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl
 
WIRE DIAGRAM INFO

WIRE HARNESS FAQ's  >> PLEASE READ ME <<

ORDERING INFORMATION
GUARANTEE AND RETURN POLICY


Volvo Wire Harness Part Number Collection
The below list does not include every 240 and 740 harness part number ever made, but a vast majority of North American Volvo (and some European) part numbers are here.  It's compiled mostly from "salvage yard research" over many years plus some info from friends in the Volvo parts community.  Each of the below part numbers are designated for a main engine wire harness, unless otherwise noted.  A few are for ignition harnesses (those are noted as such).  Many of Volvo's part numbers have changed over the years (or have been "superceded") for newer numbers. I have included those changes where I have that information. 
Part numbers highlighted in RED are most commonly original harnesses or old numbers.  Most likely that was a harness found in your car when new.
                     
Underlined part numbers will be the latest part number known for that particular harness.


Where do you find Part Numbers on engine harnesses? CLICK HERE

BELOW NUMBERS ARE ASSIGNED TO NORTH AMERICAN VOLVOS (unless marked otherwise)
240 4 cyl

240 79 B21F K-Jet
Engine Harness (1235345 old), new 9139228 (79 requires adapter for firewall connector to use 9139228, supplied with harness).
240 79-83 B19E, B21E and B23E, K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), 9139228  (79 requires adapter for firewall connector).
240 80 B21F K-Jet Engine Harness (1259454 old), newer 3515395, newest 9139228.
240 late-81 and 82 B21F K-Jet
Engine Harness (1307597 old, or 1308890 old), new 3515381 with 3-wire Idle Air Control Valve.
240 81 and early 82 B21F K-Jet Engine Harness (1307597 old, or 1308890 old)new 9139228 with 2-wire Auxillary Air Valve. 
240 81-82 B21F Ignition Harness Bosch ignition red distributor cap. Old 1307581 (no newer PN found). 
240 82 B21F Ignition Harness with MPG Chrysler ignition, white distributor cap, round plug (1307061 or 1317561 old, 1332643 newer) newest 3515722.
240 Turbo 81-85 B21FT K-Jet Engine Harness (1348155 old), new 3515393.  
240 Turbo B21FT Ignition Harness
(old 1307582)
No newer PN was produced.
240 Turbo 81-85 B21ET K-Jet
Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515394
240 late-82 B21F LH-1.0 EFI Engine Harness (1308892 old), new 3515383.  
240 82 B21F Ignition Harness
with MPG Chrysler ignition, white distributor cap, round plug (1307061 or 1317561 old, 1332643 newer) newest 3515722.
240 83-84 B23F LH-2.0 Engine Harness (1348296 or 1348297 old), new 3515397
240 83 B23F Ignition Harness 83 with MPG Chrysler ignition, white distributor cap, round plug 
(1307597 or 1308890 old) new 3515722.  
240 83-84 B23F Ignition Harness 83-84 Bosch ignition, red distributor cap, square plug (1346259 old) new 3515723.
240 85-87 B230F LH-2.2 Engine Harness (1362296 old), new 3515364
240 85-87 B230E/F LH-2.2 Engine Harness (AUSTRALIA) (1362794 old) new 3515364
240 85-91 B200E, B230E K-Jetronic Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3523908
240 85-87 B230F Ignition Harness Bosch ignition, red distributor cap (1363888 old, 1398401 newer) newest 3515885.
240 85-91 B200E, B230E K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3523908
240 88 B230F Engine Harness 1398768.
240 89 B230F
Engine Harness (1398920 old) 3515052, 9139227.
240 90 B230F
Engine Harness (1398902 old, 3515918 or 3515919 newer), newest PN 9139227 (LH 2.4, with EGR)
240 90 B230F Engine Harness 3523139 (LH 3.1, without EGR)
240 90-92 B200E, B230E LH-2.4 Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515917
240 91 B230F Engine Harness 3523899 (91 US Federal with auto trans or all Calif. models with LH 2.4)
240 91 B230F
Engine Harness 3523900 (91 US Federal with manual trans with LH 3.1)
240 92 B230F Engine Harness 3544669 (92 US Federal with auto trans or all Calif. models with LH 2.4)
240 92 B230F Engine Harness 3523670 (92 US Federal with manual trans with LH 3.1)
260 6 cyl
260 79 B27F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1269153 old) 9139222
260 79 B27E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 269562
260 80 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1269153 old), newer 1269418,  newest 9139222.
260 80 B27E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) (1269417 old) 9139222
260 81 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1269666 old) new 3515376 commonly known as Federal model. With 2-wire Auxilary Air Valve.
260 81 B28F V6 K-Jet
Engine Harness (? old)  new 3515375 commonly known as Calif model. With 3-wire Idle Air Control Valve.
260 81-82 B28E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515374
260 82 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1269666 old) new 3515376 commonly known as Federal model. With 2-wire Auxilary Air Valve.
260 83-85 B28E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) (3515389 old) 9129222
240 Diesel
240 Diesel 80-85 Engine Harness (1259455 old, 1323991 newer, 1324872 newer), 3515388 newer, 3515400 newer, newest 9139238.


BELOW NUMBERS ARE ASSIGNED TO NORTH AMERICAN VOLVOS (unless marked otherwise)
740 Turbo/760 Turbo/780 Turbo 4 cyl
760 Turbo 83-84 B23ET Motronic Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), 3515496
740 Turbo 84 B19ET K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), 3515498
760 Turbo 84 B23FT LH-2.0 Engine Harness (1324974 old, 1348306 newer), newest 3515497.
740/760 Turbo 85 B230FT LH-2.2
Engine Harness (1324459 old), new 3515509.
740/760 Turbo 85-86 B200ET, B230ET Motronic
Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), new 3515523
740/760 Turbo 86 B230FT LH-2.2
Engine Harness (1362579 old), new 3515520.
740/760 Turbo 86 B230FT Right Fender Harness (? old), new 3515550.  No newer fender harnesses were made.
740 Turbo 87 B200ET, B230ET Motronic
Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), 1398831
740/760/780 Turbo 87 only B230FT and 740 & 780 Turbo 88 only B230FT (NOT 88 760 Turbo) LH-2.2
Engine Harness (1363217 old, 1398832 newer), newest 3523094
760 Turbo 88 & 89 B230FT LH-2.2 Engine Harness (1363463 old),  new 3523093
760 Turbo 88-89 B230ET Motronic Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), (1363464 old) new 3523092
740 Turbo 88-89 B200ET, B230ET Motronic Engine Harness (EUROPEAN), 1398831
740 & 780 Turbo 89 B230FT LH-2.2 Engine Harness (1398832 old), new 3523094
740 & 780 Turbo 89 B230FT L-fender harness (1398038 or 1398368 old) new 3515617
740 & 780 Turbo 89 B230FT R-fender harness  new 3515618
740 & 780 Turbo 89 B230FT Turbo Plus harness 8360303 (740/760/780).
740/780 Turbo 90 B230FT LH-2.4 Engine Harness 1398214.
760 Turbo 90 B230FT LH-2.4
Engine Harness 1398216.
740/760/780 Turbo 91 B230FT LH-2.4 Engine Harness 3523379.
760/780 6 cyl
760 82 B28E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) (1269704 old), new 3515470.
760 83 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1324688 old), new 3515484.
760 83 B28E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) (1269833 old), new 3515474.
760 84 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1324754 old), new 3515487.
760 84-87 B28E V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515500.
760 85-86 B28F V6 K-Jet Engine Harness (1348140 old), new 3515501.
760/780 87 B280F V6 LH-2.2
Engine Harness 1363123 (no later PN)
760 88 B280F V6 LH-2.2 Engine Harness 1398092.
760 88 B280E V6 LH-2.2 Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398092.
780 88-90 B280F V6 LH-2.2 Engine Harness 1363123.
760 89-90 B280F V6 LH-2.2
Engine Harness 3523032.
760 89-90 B280E V6 LH-2.2 Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3523032.
760 Turbo Diesel
760 Turbo Diesel 84 w/o EGR Engine Harness(? old), new 3515491.
760 Turbo Diesel 84 w/EGR
Engine Harness,  (? old), new 3515492.
760 Turbo Diesel 85-86
Engine Harness (1347398, 1362876, or 1362581 old), new 3515579 or new 3515518 (depending on VIN and other info).
740 GLE non-turbo 4 cyl, 8 valve
740 GLE 84 B19E and B23E Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515522.
740 GLE 85 B230F Engine Harness (1324664 old), new 3515505.
740 GLE 85-86 B200E, B230E K-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3515522.
740 GLE 86 B230F LH-2.2 Engine Harness (1362584 old), new 3515516.
740 GLE 87-88 B230F LH-2.2
Engine Harness (1363216 old), new 1398765
740 GLE 87-89 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398829 (with manual transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 87-89 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398830 (with auto transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 87-88 B230F L-fender harness (1362468 old), R-fender (1362464 old) No newer fender harnesses were made.
740 GLE 87-89 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398829 (with manual transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 87-89 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398830 (with auto transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 89 B230F LH-2.4 Engine Harness 1398777.
740 GLE 89 B230F Regina EFI Engine Harness 1398167.    
740 GLE 89 B230F L-fender harness 1398060.  No newer fender harnesses were made.
740 GLE 90 B230F
Engine Harness 1363626 or 1363628 (with Regina EFI Alt-1). 3544342 (with Regina EFI Alt-2).
740 GLE 90 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398778 (with manual transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 90 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 1398779 (with auto transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 91 B230F Regina EFI Engine Harness 3523378.
740 GLE 91 B230F LH-2.4 Engine Harness 3523377.
740 GLE 91 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3523375 (with manual transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 91 B200E, B230E LE-Jet Engine Harness (EUROPEAN) 3523376 (with auto transmission)
(LE-Jet is not verified on above model)
740 GLE 92 B230F LH-2.4 Engine Harness 3523973.
740 GLE non-turbo 4 cyl, 16 Valve
740 GLE 16Valve 89 B234F Engine Harness 3523151.
740 GLE 16Valve 90 B234F Engine Harness 3515139
740 GLE 16Valve 90 B234F R-fender harness (1398711 old) new 3523098. L-fender harness 1398206. (newer PN unknown)
960 6 cyl 24 Valve
960 92
Engine Harness 9130023 or 9130429 (with EGR).  
960 92-94
Engine Harness (6849711 old, 6849712 old), newer 9130022 or 9130428 or 9128642 (no EGR).

What's the Story on Volvo Harnesses?
Beginning in the 1990's, in my spare time, I began searching some of Southern California's salvage yards for slightly USED, but EXCELLENT Volvo engine wire harnesses for 1980 to 1987 Volvo 200 and 700 models (and a few other years on occasion).  The original harnesses in the 1980-1987 Volvos were made with a defective plastic insulation that badly deteriorated after years of exposure to engine heat.  These harnesses would soon fail and the owners of these cars were then forced to have them replaced, unless they were fortunate and the defect occurred during the vehicle warranty period (I have only heard from ONE owner over the years who had one covered under warranty).

An engine wire harness is the part of the wire loom that goes to the many different points on the engine, such as the starter motor, alternator, engine sensors, fuel injection, etc.  On some cars, such as with several 240 models, the engine harness will extend through the firewall to a computer.  On others, such as the 240 Turbo and 700 models,  it might stop at a multi-pin connector at the firewall or a fender, where a new harness then continued onward to other areas of the car as a separate "body harness."

You will see the term "later replacement harness" used throughout this site.  This term refers to a Volvo engine wire harness specifically produced to replace the original defective harness.  A later replacement harness is not just another original Volvo wire harness.  If it was, it too would disintegrates after a time.  The wire insulation defect was clearly recognized by Volvo and eventually corrected prior to the 1988 model year, since the problem was cured for all 1988 and later Volvos. So a later replacement harness was manufactured using superior insulation, which can handle the prolonged high temperatures under your hood, as well it should. 

Nearly all later replacement harnesses were given NEW PART NUMBERS.  These newer numbers were issued by Volvo, so the new harnesses would not be confused with the old bad ones.  This new part number (which is always visible on a newer harness) is how you can tell it is a later replacement harness. 

<<< Most part numbers will be found on a red tube as shown here. For more detail about finding part numbers, CLICK HERE.







Unless otherwise noted... all replacement Volvo engine harnesses I offer for sale here are for 1980 through 1987 models.
USED later replacement harnesses are getting harder to find it good condition. For some models I now offer NEW engine harness, which are custom made for me in the Netherlands. 

Any USED harnesses I still offer are considered to be later replacement harnesses.  These were acquired from wrecked or salvaged Volvos, in which the engine wire harness had been already been replaced before it was wrecked. insurance, life insurance term, home equity line of credit

A Little History about Bad Volvo Harnesses:
The factory original engine harnesses installed in all Volvos during the 1980 through 1987 model years started to disintegrate after a few years of exposure to engine heat.  The insulation on the individual wires would get soft and crumble away, eventually leaving exposed wires to short out and cause all kinds of problems with electronic systems.  THIS PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY HEAT attacking the defective insulation over years of use, and was somewhat accelerated in turbocharged cars due to the higher heat conditions in the engine bay. 

This problem generally DID NOT plague pre-1980 Volvos, nor was it found in 1988 and later cars, which all seem to have good wire insulation.  Volvo recognized and was able to correct this problem for all 1988 and later models.

Recognizing the Problem in Your 1980 to 1987 Volvo:
Typical deterioration of an original Volvo engine harness in a Volvo manufactured between 1980 and 1987 would usually become obvious when some of the MOST VISIBLE wires on top of or near the engine began to lost their insulation.  On a 240 you will probably first see evidence of deterioration on the wires going to a gray rectangular 8-pin connector near the firewall or on wires going to or near the alternator.  On a 740 you might first notice damage at the gray 8-pin connectors too (they're near the right and left fenders) as well as the fuel injector wires or ground wires near the top of the engine (very obvious in the photos shown here)

If your 1980 to 1987 Volvo still has the original engine harness and you don't see any such obvious damage yet, please don't assume you got off lucky.  I have inspected thousands of 1980 through 1987 Volvo harnesses and unless the car had very few miles, the original engine harness pretty much went bad 100% of the time.  This often happens in places where it is not so obvious too, such as deep inside the protective vinyl covers of the harness.  Many customers have told me about their discoveries when removing old harnesses. 

Many people have cut open the harness coverings, only to find multiple bare wire strands where there should be bundles of colored wires. 

If you have one of these Volvos, this could very well be the cause of intermittent failures.  These harnesses connect to such components as engine sensors, alternator, starter motor, fuel injectors, throttle position switch, idle control valve, mass air sensor, fuel pump relay, oxygen sensor, ground points, control pressure regulator and cold start injector.

What about Ignition Harnesses in 240's?
Please keep in mind the Ignition Wire Harness is a separate part on all pre-1988 4-cylinder 240's. This means the "Engine Harness" for these models did not supply connections for the ignition. The GOOD NEWS I have found is that 240 Ignition Harnesses were typically not found to be defective nearly as often as Engine Harnesses were.  This means Ignition Harnesses usually last much longer.  

The 740/760 Series:
When it came to the 740/760 series, Volvo designed their wiring systems a little differently than a 240, although the 1980 through 1987 models experienced the same defects.  The below diagram illustrates the most prominent under-hood harnesses for the 740/760 cars:
1. Engine Harness
2. Left Side Suspension Tower Harness (or Fender Harness)
3. Right Side Suspension Tower Harness (or Fender Harness)
Of course the Engine Harness (shown as #1) is the one that goes bad on these cars first. The right and left Fender Harnesses usually survive much longer.  If you find damage to a fender harness you should consider making some repairs as Fender Harnesses were NEVER AVAILABLE as later replacement harnesses.  They were expensive when they were available (usually around $500-$1200 each), but now you will find none are available.  

The general Volvo Engine Harness defect was discovered several years after production as wire harnesses started crumbling in Volvos by the mid-1980's, beginning with the '80 models.  By the end of the 1987 model year, Volvo cured the problem in their production runs.  From the 1988 model year to present, all new harnesses, including the new replacement ones for pre-1988 cars, had superior wire insulation that would not disintegrate like the old harnesses did.  

Customer Comments

"Dave--finally getting around to thanking you for the site, the help, and the harness--all superb. Makes me look forward to the next fried wire surprise!!" G.E., Paradise, CA

"Dave,  I want to let you know that the engines harness arrived on my doorstep late on Saturday 21 December.  A terrific Christmas present!  Thanks ever so much for your service.  It looked great and I started its installation almost straight away.  The harness you sent had provision for a Lambda system (oxygen sensor) on it, though my car doesn't have a Lambda system fitted (1984 B28E V6 engine).  It may have been removed in the past?  It had me confused for a while but your photocopies of the Volvo wiring diagrams confirmed for me that it didn't matter anyway since the Lambda connectors could be left unused as there is no frequency injector fitted.  The car started straight away when I completed the installation.  The condition of the old wiring harness was frightening when I pulled it out. I don't know how it could have ran with so much exposed copper core wiring in many areas where the insulation had cracked and fallen away.  Again, thanks for your service and have a great New Year. Kind regards," P. B., Sydney, Australia

"Dave,  Last weekend I replaced the ignition harness and the engine harness!  As you said on your web page about the plastic insulation crumbling away, the gray connector on the firewall had every wire exposed and I striped the plastic loom and found nothing but wire held apart by deteriorated insulation.  I do not know how the car ran!  The car runs very well now and seems to not skip and flutter as it did before.  It took a friend and I about 4 1/2 hours.  Thank you for doing the harness thing, you do a very good job and sell a very good product." D.T.

"Dave:  Installed the used harness you sent and all the problems with my car seem to be solved... I still can't believe that all those Volvo mechanics couldn't figure it out after three full weeks of testing it.  Thank You!  You have made my life much better through your website.  Lawrence Volvo in Walnut Creek estimated 8 to 10 hours of labor to install a new harness, and they insisted that it was very unlikely that the harness was faulty.  Considering that it only took me 3.5 hours to swap out the harness, I wonder why they estimated more than twice that.  I am almost a complete novice, the most I have done to my car is change the oil; I don't even know what most of the parts under the hood are.  Seems like they were trying to get me to spend $3000... thank you for saving me $2850!"  W.I. 

"Dave:   I received the '85 740 non-turbo wire harness this morning.  You should be proud of yourself - you've provided the best e-commerce service I've experienced in the automotive field - on par with my favorites (IPD, Moss Motors, Tire Rack).  Keep up the good work.   The harness looks great.  You apparently are very selective about the harnesses you choose to inventory.  Mine arrived clean, flexible, and appears to be exactly as represented in your description.    The installation information you provided is also as promised ... very detailed, complete, and (unless I refuse to follow the instructions) about as straightforward an installation as could be imagined. You've taken the guesswork out of "shadetree mechanic" repairing of electricals ... something that is usually an intimidating and HUGE challenge for the average DIY mechanic."   A.D.C.

"Dave,  I just wanted to let you know I received the harness.  It looks like it was barely used.  In fact, my father-in-law who used to work on Porsches and a family friend who currently works on Mercedes both looked at it and said that it was essentially "perfect" and practically brand new!!! You run an A-1 business.  I'll recommend you everytime!!! Thanks," D.R.

"Hi Dave, finished the wiring harness today and it started perfectly.  I was kinda shocked considering the old harness fell apart in my hands and when it failed last week the harness was smoking near the power steering pump and the instrument panel was going crazy. I thought I might have fried other components else where in the vehicle.  Your web page and instructions are great.  I found the hardest part for me was getting the old connectors apart as those pins were frozen based on age."  T.H.,  Raleigh, NC

"Dave,  Thank you again for all your help. The bobo started right up after I changed the engine harness & connectors to the cabin-totally toast (as well as the ignition harness, temp.sending unit, temp. sensor & rewired the distributor lead-just to be sure). It was really easy - just like you said. The tip on installing the injectors with a bit o grease worked extremely well...you are loved! HOORAY!" M.F., Bakersfield, CA 

 
ORDERING A REPLACEMENT VOLVO ENGINE HARNESS

Shipping within the USA is usually by Priority Mail insured and the cost is listed in each harness description. 
If you're in a hurry, Express Mail (overnight to most areas) is possible for a higher cost depending on weight and destination (ZIP Code).   Please write me (and include your ZIP Code) if you need more info about that.
And please email for international shipping rates if not listed.

>>Payments, Policies and Ordering Info Page<<



EMAIL ME

Thanks,
Dave Barton

CLICK HERE FOR RETURN POLICY


 

Replacement Harnesses Available Below


Regarding Volvo Wiring Diagrams:
I get a lot of emails from people asking for copies of wire diagrams and wiring manuals.  I do not offer these.  If you need factory wire diagram info, the best source I know is at www.volvowiringdiagrams.com
or
www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/
If you need a printed factory wiring manual for your car, you might still be able can find Volvo Factory Wiring Manuals at
http://www.volvotechinfo.com, where they are on average about $27.00 for a 170 page manual.  Also some good free resources are found at www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/ and www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/.



Volvo Harness F.A.Q.'s CLICK HERE


240 SERIES





Click to find your harness:
'79-'80 240 non-turbo
'81-'82 240 (2 wire Idle Valve)
'81-'82 240 (3-wire Idle Valve))
'81-'85 240 Turbo B21FT (USA)
'81-'85 240 Turbo B21ET (EUROPE)
'82 240 non-turbo w/EFI LH 1.0
'83-'84 240 non-turbo EFI LH2.0
'85-'87 240 non-turbo

240
1979 ONLY 240 4 cylinder
 
Order Quantity:  
Shipping for Harness (if added separately)
Select Shipping and "Add to Cart"
USA Shipping:
View Cart or Check Out
Please email for USA Express Mail or International Shipping options.
NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)
IN STOCK


(9139228) NEW ENGINE WIRE HARNESS  -- Made in the Netherlands
Fits 1979 Volvo 240 with B21F and Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection. 
Also fits 1979 240 with B19E, B21E and B23E using K-Jetronic sold in European market, Canada and possibly Australia. 
For European customers, this harnesses is available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl
NOTE: If you are not sure about your 240, a 240 that accepts this harness will have only one gray 8-pole connector plug on the the LEFT side firewall, behind the intake manifold. No gray connector on the right side firewall.
Part Number 9139228 (NEW AFTERMARKET HARNESS), PRICE: $270.00 plus shipping ($17.00 for Priority Mail insured). 
1979 ONLY: A multi-pin firewall plug adapter is included if ordered for a 1979 model

This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.  These diagrams will answer any questions about your harness connections.
240
1980-'82 240 non-turbo 4 cylinder
 
Order Quantity:  
Shipping for Harness (if added separately)
Select Shipping and "Add to Cart"
USA Shipping:
View Cart or Check Out
Please email for USA Express Mail or International Shipping options.










NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)
IN STOCK


 

This harness may be used for the conversion harness for PN 3515381 1981-82 240. Details below.
(9139228) NEW ENGINE WIRE HARNESS  -- Made in the Netherlands
Fits all 1980 Volvo 240 DL, GL, or GT with B21F and Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection. 
Fits all 1981-82 240 DL models equipped with a B21F and AUXILIARY AIR VALVE with 2-wire plug (Does not fit cars with 3-wire Idle Air Control Valve),
Click here or see below photo for Idle/Air Valve Comparison images. 
Europe/Australia:
Also fits 1980-83 240 with B19E, B21E and B23E using K-Jetronic
sold in Europe market, Canada and Australia. 
For European customers, this harnesses is available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl
NOTE: If you are not sure about your 240, a car that accepts this harness will have only one gray 8-pole connector plug on the the LEFT side firewall, behind the intake manifold. There will be no such gray connector on the right side (exhaust side) firewall.
Part Number 9139228 (NEW AFTERMARKET HARNESS), PRICE: $260.00 plus shipping  

This harness comes with a complete set of
custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.  These diagrams will answer any questions about your harness connections.
bos100e



(2 lbs 1 oz)
240
'81-'82 240 non-turbo 4 cylinder
 
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NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)
Converted Harness
IN STOCK
 


(3515381) NEW ENGINE WIRE HARNESS  -- Made in the Netherlands
This is a converted harness, made using a brand new 9139228 harness (above) and a new adapter harness which covers the additional circuits Volvo added when they designed the 1982 model.
This harness fits the 1981-82 240 (non-turbo), equipped with a B21F engine and K-Jetronic mechanical fuel injection. It fits all cars with a 3-wire IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE - see photo
NOTE: If you're not sure about your 240, read this. If your 240 has two 8-pole gray connector plugs on the firewall, one on the right side AND one on the left side, then this is the correct harness.  If only ONE is present (on intake side), then this is not the one.
Price:
$340.00 plus shipping
This conversion includes a NEW harness 9139228, and a NEW conversion harness made to correctly fit your car that needs PN 3515381.  It comes with a detailed set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.  This conversion has been installed in over 50 cars over the years (mostly by first-timers) and is 100% Guaranteed.  You WILL BE SUCCESSFUL installing this harness!
bos50e-3515381B
(2 lbs 8 oz)

Harness firewall loom repair info  -- CLICK HERE


Important info about wire harness conversions.
240 Turbo USA
'81-'85 240 B21FT Turbo all years
 


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NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)

IN STOCK



(3515393) New VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS. Aftermarket manufacturer. Made in the Netherlands / '81-'85 240 TURBO, B21FT, Part Number 3515393.  Price: $270.00 plus shipping ($18.00 for Priority Mail/insured) This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections. 

A 240 using this engine harness will be a 1981 to 85 model and will have ENGINE CODE 47 on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  Engine Code 47 can be seen in this pic below:


For a good article on changing a 240 Turbo harness, click here.


Harness firewall loom repair  -- CLICK HERE

bos100e
240 (EUROPE)
'81-'85 240 B21ET TURBO














NEW HARNESS
Aftermarket  --  Made in the Netherlands




(3515394) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS /  1981-85 240 Turbo B21ET European market, Part Number 3515394.  This it the main engine harness for the 240 Turbo sold in Europe.
Aftermarket manufacturer. Made in the Netherlands.
 

For European customers, this harnesses is available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl



bos90e
N-7e
A14e
B20e
O-25e
240
'82 only 240 non-turbo with EFI
 


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NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)

IN STOCK




(3515383) NEW ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / Late 1982 Volvo 240 (non-turbo) with LH-Jetronic 1.0 electronic fuel injection (rare car, 1982 one year only). Part Number 3515383.
Price: $270.00 plus shipping ($18.00 for Priority Mail USA insured)This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
bos110e
WHICH FUEL INJECTION DOES YOUR 1982 240 NON-TURBO HAVE?
A 240 using this engine harness will be a 1982 model and will have ENGINE CODE 48 on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  Engine Code 48 can be seen in this pic below:


Options for 1982 Volvos
Two main types were offered for 1982....
1. K-Jetronic,
which is mechanical injection. 

2. LH-Jetronic, which is electronic injection.  To solve this question for your car, open your hood and look for the four fuel injectors on top of the engine and then read below....

1. K-Jetronic Mechanical Fuel Injection or Continuous Injection (CI ), which came on earlier 240's ('76 to '82), will have four fuel injectors bolted into the top driver's side of the cylinder head. Each injector has its own thick rubber fuel line going to it.  There are no electrical connections on these injectors. Click here for photo.

2. LH-Jetronic Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), which began later in 1982 (and therefore pretty rare in an '82), will have four electronic fuel injectors attached to the top of the intake manifold.  This type of injection has a metal "fuel rail" which feeds all injectors, although there will be four very short rubber connection lines going from the fuel rail to each injector.  Each of these injectors has an electrical connection (which makes it electronic fuel injection).  Click here for photo.

Still have questions?... feel free to email me.

240
'82-'84 240 non-turbo
(IGNITION)

USED IGNITION HARNESS
Out of Stock


(3515722) Used IGNITION WIRE HARNESS / '82-'84 240 (non-turbo), Part Number 3515722, Volvo retail: $276.00 (no longer available).  This harness has the ROUND plug connector for the distributor (see photo) and will fit models with the Chrysler MPG (white cap) distributor and some early Bosch (red cap) distributors with round connector plug.
This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

Click here for 240 Ignition Harness Info


240
'83-'84 240 non-turbo
(IGNITION)
Out of Stock


USED IGNITION HARNESS
Out of Stock



(3515723) Used IGNITION WIRE HARNESS / '83-'84 Volvo 240 (non-turbo), Part Number 3515723, Volvo retail: $??, your price: $150.00 plus shipping ($12.00 for Priority Mail/insured). This harness has the RECTANGULAR plug connector for the distributor (see photo) and will fit models with the Bosch (red cap) distributor.  This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

Click here for 240 Ignition Harness Info
240
'83-'84 240 non-turbo
Option #1 of 3
OUT OF STOCK

USED ENGINE WIRE HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
OUT OF STOCK







(3515397) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '83-'84 240 (non-turbo) Part number 3515397 (Genuine Volvo), Excellent condition, Volvo retail is $683.00. Your price: $220 plus shipping ($16.00 for Priority Mail/insured).    This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.





240
'83-'84 240 non-turbo
 

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NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)
IN STOCK




(3515397) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / 1983-84 240 (non-turbo), Part number 3515397.
Aftermarket
manufacturer. Made in the Netherlands.
Price:
$380.00 (plus $18
.00 for Priority Mail USA insured). This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

A 240 using this engine harness will be a 1983-84 model and will have ENGINE CODE 88 on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  Engine Code 88 can be seen in this pic below:


Waterproof Fuse Holder Option


bos180e

240
'85-'87 240 non-turbo 
OUT OF STOCK
USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
OUT OF STOCK


(3515364) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS, Exceptional Condition! / '85-'87 Volvo 240 (non-turbo), Part Number 3515364, Volvo retail: $500.00, your price: $220.00 plus shipping.    This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.



240
'85-'87 240 non-turbo
  


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NEW ENGINE HARNESS
(Aftermarket)

IN STOCK
 




(3515364) BRAND NEW ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / 1985-87 Volvo 240 (non-turbo), Part Number 3515364, Aftermarket manufacturer. Made in the Netherlands.
Price: $380.00 plus shipping ($18 for Priority Mail USA insured)
.  This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

A 240 using this engine harness will be a 1985-87 model and will have ENGINE CODE 88 on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  Engine Code 88 can be seen in this pic below:

This harness fits all North American 1985-87 240 (non-turbo) models with Bosch LH 2.2 fuel injection.


Waterproof Fuse Holder Option

bos170e


240
'85-'87 240 non-turbo
(IGNITION)
 





USED IGNITION HARNESS
Genuine Volvo

OUT OF STOCK


(3515885) Used Volvo IGNITION WIRE HARNESS / '85-'87 Volvo 240 (non-turbo), Exceptional condition. Part Number 3515885 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo retail: $220.00,  your price: $150.00 plus shipping ($12.00 for Priority Mail/insured).


Click here for 240 Ignition Harness Info
260 SERIES (V6)


260
'81 262 Bertone, 264 6 cylinder

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USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

One in Stock
Exceptional Condition


(3515375) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / 1981 262C or 264 (B28F V6) Commonly referred to as the "California" model with 3-wire Idle Air Control Valve (see pic below).  Part Number 3515375 (GENUINE VOLVO HARNESS), Volvo retail is $437.00. PRICE:  $200.00 plus shipping ($18 for Priority Mail).


740/760/780 SERIES









Click to find your harness:
83 760 GLE   (V6 Engine)
84 760 Turbo   (4-cyl)
84 760 GLE   (V6 Engine)
85 740 GLE   (4-cyl)
85 740/760 Turbo   (4-cyl)
85-86 760 GLE (6-cyl)
85-86 740 Turbo (EUROPEAN)
86 740 GLE   (4-cyl)
86 740/760 Turbo   (4-cyl)
87 740 GLE   (4-cyl)
87 740/760 Turbo   (4-cyl)
87 740 Turbo (EUROPEAN)
87 760/780   (6-cyl)

760
'83 760 GLE V6





USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
OUT OF STOCK


(3515484) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '83 Volvo 760 GLE (V6), Part Number 3515484, Volvo retail: $517.00, your price: $160.00 plus shipping ($12.00 for Priority Mail/insured)This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
 
OUT OF STOCK

760
'84 760 Turbo
  OUT OF STOCK







USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

OUT OF STOCK

   


(3515497) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS, Exceptional Condition  / '84 Volvo 760 TURBO (with B23FT 4-cyl), Part Number 3515497 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo retail: $638.00, your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($14.00 for Priority Mail).   This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.


760
'84 760 (V6 engine)





USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
OUT OF STOCK


(3515487) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '84 Volvo 760 GLE V6 engine, Part Number 3515487 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo retail: $360.00 (NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM VOLVO), your price: $150.00 plus shipping ($12.00 for Priority Mail).   This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
760 -  6 cylinder
'85-'86 760 GLE
 

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USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

ONE AVAILABLE
(3515501) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS  / '85-'86 Volvo 760 GLE B28F (6 cylinder), Part Number 3515501 (Genuine Volvo). Excellent condition. Your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($17.00 for Priority Mail insured).
740
'85 740 GLE
 
OUT OF STOCK
USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

OUT OF STOCK

(3515505) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS  / '85 Volvo 740 GLE (non-turbo), Part Number 3515505 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo Retail: $468.00, your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($14.00 for Priority Mail/insured).    This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.


740
'85 740 GLE
 


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Converted NEW Harness Option
AVAILABLE TO ORDER

(3515505) CONVERTED HARNESS:  It is a fairly simple task to CONVERT an '87 740 GLE engine harness to correctly fit an '85 740 GLE.  So if you need an engine harness for an '85 740 GLE, I will do the conversion to an '87 harness free of charge (as long as I have an '87 harness in stock) Cost to you for this NEW harness: $300.00 plus $18 shipping. 

If this conversion interests you, I will need one piece of information about your current harness (indicated by the ** below). 
On the back of your alternator you will see:
1. A fat red wire.
2. A thin red wire.
3. A fat ground wire (probably blue).
4. ** Look behind your alternator for a gray plastic 2-pole plug (wire colors: blue and brown).
<<< CLICK THIS PHOTO to see. 
In most 740s this connector is NOT plugged into the back of your alternator.  BUT, if it is, please let me know and I will add this plug when I convert the harness.
The extra cost for adding this plug is $10.00.
This connector was used in some 700 models for a temperature controlled voltage regulator.  The temperature sensor is usually mounted on the right side of the car (it may be under the battery) and is connected using another plug like this on the opposite end of the engine harness.  This voltage regulator would then temporarily adjust voltage based on outside temperature (supposedly up to 0.5 volt during extreme cold conditions).  Since this regulator was very expensive to replace and most USA climates never got cold enough to benefit, most replacements over the years have been normal regulators. So most 1985 740's today do not use this plug. 


This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

Info about harness conversions.
740/760
'85 740/760 TURBO
Option #1 of 2
OUT OF STOCK

USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

OUT OF STOCK


(3515509) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '85 Volvo 740 TURBO / 760 TURBO (B230FT), Part Number 3515509 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo Retail: $516.00, your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($14.00 for Priority Mail/insured).   This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
740
'85-'86 740 TURBO (EUROPEAN market)








NEW HARNESS
Aftermarket  --  Made in the Netherlands




(3515523) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS 1985-86 740 Turbo, European market models with Motronic fuel injection, Part Number 3515523 (Aftermarket harness - made in the Netherlands). 

For European customers, this harnesses is available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl
 

bos160e

740
'86 740 GLE
 
'86 740 GLE
OUT OF STOCK

USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

OUT OF STOCK


(3515516) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '86 Volvo 740 GLE (non-turbo), Part Number 3515516 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo Retail: $671.00$200.00 plus shipping ($14 for Priority Mail).  This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
740
'86 740 GLE

Order Quantity:  
Shipping for Harness (if added separately)
Select Shipping and "Add to Cart"
USA Shipping:
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Converted NEW Harness Option
AVAILABLE TO ORDER



(3515516) CONVERTED HARNESS:  It is a fairly simple task to CONVERT an '87 740 GLE engine harness to correctly fit an '86 740 GLE.  So if you need an engine harness for an '86 740 GLE, I will do the conversion to an '87 harness (as long as I have an '87 harness in stock) Cost to you for this NEW harness: $300.00 plus $18 shipping. 

If this conversion interests you, I will need one piece of information about your current harness (indicated by the ** below). 
On the back of your alternator you will see:
1. A fat red wire.
2. A thin red wire.
3. A fat ground wire (probably blue).
4. ** Look behind your alternator for a gray plastic 2-pole plug (wire colors: blue and brown).
<<< CLICK THIS PHOTO to see. 
In most 740s this connector is NOT plugged into the back of your alternator.  BUT, if it is, please let me know and I will add this plug when I convert the harness. The extra cost for adding this plug is $10.00.
This connector was used in some 700 models for a temperature controlled voltage regulator.  The temperature sensor is usually mounted on the right side of the car (it may be under the battery) and is connected using another plug like this on the opposite end of the engine harness.  This voltage regulator would then temporarily adjust voltage based on outside temperature (supposedly up to 0.5 volt during extreme cold conditions).  Since this regulator was very expensive to replace and most USA climates never got cold enough to benefit, most replacements over the years have been normal regulators. So most 1985 740's today do not use this plug. 


This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

Info about harness conversions.
740/760
'86 740/760 Turbo
 
OUT OF STOCK

USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

Out of Stock


(3515520) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS, Exceptional Condition! / '86 Volvo 740 TURBO / 760 TURBO, Part Number 3515520 (Genuine Volvo), Volvo retail: $540.00, Your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($14.00 for Priority Mail)
This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.

If available, this harness may be converted for use in a 1985 or 1987 740 Turbo or 760 Turbo. There is no charge for this conversion.
740/760
'86 740/760 Turbo
NO LONGER AVAILABLE
NEW HARNESS
(Aftermarket)
NO LONGER AVAILABLE
(3515520) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '86 Volvo 740 TURBO / 760 TURBO, Part Number 3515520, (AFTERMARKET HARNESS), Volvo Retail: $540.00
740/760
'86 740/760 Turbo
Option #2 of 3

NEW HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
No Longer Available

(3515520) NEW GENUINE VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '86 Volvo 740 TURBO / 760 TURBO, Part Number 3515520, Volvo Retail: $540.00, your price: $480.00 plus shipping ($14.00 for Priority Mail/insured). 

740/760
'86 740/760 Turbo
Option #3 of 3
NO LONGER AVAILABLE



Converted Harness Option - NEW HARNESS

NO LONGER AVAILABLE

(3515520)  This is a CONVERTED '85 740 Turbo engine harness designed to fit your '86 740 Turbo.  Volvo Retail: 427.00,   (This includes a new aftermarket harness 3515509 converted to fit your '86 740 Turbo or 760 Turbo)  NOTE: This conversion requires NO cutting of wires or any other permanent alteration.  It is done with a couple of simple adapters and works perfectly.  Completely guaranteed.  This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.  3lb 4 oz

Info about harness conversions.
740
'87 740 GLE
Option #1 of 4


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NEW HARNESS (Aftermarket)

IN STOCK



(1398765) New ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '87 Volvo 740 GLE (non-turbo), Part Number 1398765 (Aftermarket - made in the Netherlands)
Price:
$300.00 plus shipping 
  
This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
Click here to see a write-up from a customer who installed his own '87 740 harness.







bos145e
740
1987 740 TURBO (EUROPEAN Model)


















NEW HARNESS
Aftermarket  --  Made in the Netherlands

AVAILABLE to Order.
Shipped from the Netherlands.



(1398831) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS1987 740 Turbo, European market models with Motronic fuel injection, Part Number 1398831 (Aftermarket harness - made in the Netherlands). 


For European customers this harnesses is available directly in Europe: www.elbertbos.nl
 

bos170e
740/760 Turbo
'87 740/760 Turbo
 
Out of Stock

USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)

Out of Stock

(3523094) Used ENGINE WIRE HARNESS, Exceptional Condition / '87-'88 Volvo 740 Turbo / '87 760 TURBO, later replacement, Part Number 3523094, Volvo new retail: $537.00, your price: $200.00 plus shipping ($12.00 for Priority Mail/insured).    
This harness comes with a complete set of custom colored diagrams illustrating all connections.
740/760 Turbo
'87 740/760 Turbo
 


Order Quantity:  
Shipping for Harness (if added separately)
Select Shipping and "Add to Cart"
USA Shipping:
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NEW ENGINE HARNESS
Aftermarket, made in The Netherlands

IN STOCK


(3523094) NEW VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / '87 Volvo 740 Turbo / 760 Turbo, 780 Turbo, North American models with LH Jetronic 2.2 fuel injection, Part Number 3523094, (New aftermarket harness) 
Price $320.00 plus shipping.

bos170e
760/780 (6 Cylinder)
'87 760/780

USED HARNESS (Genuine Volvo)
No Longer Available

(1363123) USED VOLVO ENGINE WIRE HARNESS / 1987 Volvo 760 / 780 with 6 Cylinder B2380F, Part Number 1363123, (Genuine Volvo Harness) Your price: NLA








Harness Return Policy
As mentioned elsewhere in this page, I am a Volvo enthusiast and playing with Volvos is my hobby.  I consider other Volvo enthusiasts to be my friends.  My primary goal is for customer satisfaction, not profit.  

NEW HARNESS POLICY
New harnesses are guaranteed to be free from defect for a period of 90 days.  If the new harness you purchase is found to be defective, it may be returned for a replacement or full refund (your choice).  

If you wish to return a new harness for any other reason
(such as you ordered the wrong part, discovered you didn't really need it or found a cheaper alternative), you may be charged a 15% restocking fee against your refund.  If it's a harness I would normally keep in stock, then no fee will apply. 

Unless found to be defective, all new harnesses
must be returned in new, unused, unaltered and uninstalled condition.

USED
HARNESS POLICY

Any used harness sold by me comes with a 100% satisfaction guarantee.  For 90 days from the date of delivery, if you find that the used harness you receive is defective in any way, or if for any reason it does not meet your expectations in any way, even if you don't like the color, I will gladly accept the return of the harness and replace it (if another is available) or issue a full refund for your purchase (your choice).  To qualify for this return policy, the returned harness needs to be unaltered and in the same condition as delivered.  Return requests made after 90 days may be considered on a case by case basis.


SPECIAL ORDERS
If an item is designated as a special order, it might not be eligible to be returned for a refund, unless defective of course.  Depending on the part, an exchange or credit may be available.

Any other returns, trades or exchanges not covered here may be considered on a case by case basis.

Frequently Asked Questions:

-    How difficult is installing a wire harness?
-    Should I try to repair my old flaking harness?
-   
Are the used harnesses you sell ORIGINAL VOLVO PARTS?
-    What about the fuel injector connections on EFI models?
-    Is buying a USED electrical part SAFE?
-    How do I know that a "later replacement harness" will not rot?
-    What do I do about ROTTING WIRES at the large plug near the firewall?
-    When splices are made, do you recommend crimping or soldering?
-    Does the IGNITION have a separate harness?
-    Should I change the routing of the engine harness?
-    Where can I locate the Volvo Part Number on a wire harness?
-   
What's the difference: GENUINE VOLVO versus AFTERMARKET?
-    Why are AFTERMARKET harnesses cheaper than GENUINE VOLVO harnesses?
-    What are the new CONVERTED aftermarket harnesses you're offering?

Q: How difficult is installing a wire harness?  Will I need to pay a mechanic to install it?
A: This job has a higher degree of difficulty than most home-mechanic tasks, however it can be done in an afternoon with ordinary automotive tools.  It is more difficult on some models than others.  On many models, the degree of difficulty is not very different from changing a timing belt.  On early 4 cylinder 240's (up to '82, and all Turbos), I usually recommend removing the intake manifold to better access the connections underneath.  These mechanically injected 240's seem to be the most difficult as far as reaching connections and those intake manifolds are always in the way. But any job like this gets easier with the intake manifold at least partially pulled away from the engine.  On the other hand, most later 240's (1983 and later non-turbos) and 700 series cars will have much more room to reach under the intake manifold and I generally do not see a need to remove the intake manifold when changing a 4-cylinder harness on those cars.

Aside from the possibility of removing the intake manifold, the most difficult part of this operation is getting the connections right the first time.  It can be very intimidating to a first timer.  This is why I always recommend that when disassembling multiple parts in an engine bay, you keep good notes on each electrical connection and each vacuum line that is unplugged.  Label the connections before pulling them apart.  Maybe even use a colored paint pen on the connectors or make a label out of tape.  Make your own notes and drawings too.  A digital camera comes in handy here.  It makes life so much easier when things are being reassembled to be certain of how they go. 

Further, each wire inside a harness is color coded, so it is a good idea when removing an old harness to pull back the rubber insulating boots on the connectors and write down the wire colors you see in conjunction to where they plugged into.  This way you will be able to check the wire colors of the new harness the same way and verify that the correct connections are being made.  Just a little extra peace of mind.

A very common email I receive after someone experiences a no-start after a new harness installation is that the starter won't turn when the key is turned to 'start'.  This occurs when the starter engagement wire (usually a blue/yellow or blue/green wire) that plugs into the spade on the starter solenoid is plugged on the wrong spade.  The correct spade is usually the lower one or the closest one to the driver's fender, depending on how the solenoid is mounted.

Regarding the use of a professional mechanic... many people do pay a mechanic to install a harness.  It has been my experience that a mechanic will charge about 3 to 6 hours labor for this job.  Check with your mechanic beforehand.  Some people have found mechanics who refuse to install any parts brought in by customers.
           Some helpful instructions are linked below... Click here.

If you decide to install a harness yourself, here are some other suggestions or considerations for maintenance items that can be done at the same time (some models are difficult unless you remove your intake manifold).
--    If you remove the intake manifold always replace the gasket, preferably with an OEM Volvo or Elring brand gasket, since they seem to be softer and a higher quality than the hard paper gaskets I have seen.  An Elring brand gasket will be fine if a Volvo gasket isn't available.
--    Clean your throttle body and replace the throttle body gasket if removed.
--    You might consider replacing some Engine Temp Sensors. IPD (www.ipdusa.com) has a selection.  (Image at right from IPD catalog) > > > >
--    Replace all small rubber vacuum lines if they're old.  They get hard and stiff and cracked and will cause you problems eventually.
--    Change the two heater hoses coming out of the firewall.  I have seen MANY fail after 10 years or longer.
--    Remove and clean (or replace) the oil breather box under the manifold.  

Q: Some people are advising me to repair my old flaking harness.  They say that buying a new one (or used one) is a big waste of money.  What do you think?
A: I am not a fan of patching a flaking engine harness, unless that is your only choice (if a new or used one is not available). A good used one can be a really good value (if you can find one).  I have followed many posts on the internet on this subject over many years, some advocating a new harness, and some advocating the repair of the old one.  I have personally observed the extent of degradation a seriously defective harness is subjected to and it is my belief patching an old flaking harness is a short-lived solution in most cases.  And please remember the wire insulation is not the only problem with a 20 plus year old crumbling harness.  The soft silicone female bullet connectors and the plastic plug (socket housing) connectors will often crumble away too.  Some people I know have been successful in building harnesses from scratch using salvaged parts from wrecking yards (and I have done this for some extinct harnesses too).  This CAN work just fine as long as the builder fully understands the harness circuits.  But such a task is very, very time-consuming.  A photo of some of the more common connectors found on these harnesses is shown at the right.

I have seen posts advocating partial repairs of old harnesses... such as the replacing of only the exposed wires. I don't like this a bit.  While some wires may seem less affected than others, unless you actually check every inch of every wire, you're taking a pretty good risk.  Some will tell you that the wires inside the black vinyl covering will be just fine because they were protected from the elements.  Again, this is just plain NOT TRUE at all!.  The killer of these original 1980-'87 harnesses is not the elements. It's ENGINE HEAT (not the weather and not even oil or fuel contamination).  This is why you will usually find that wires under your dash or in places farther from the engine heat are in perfect condition when the same wires closer to your engine are bare or flaking.  While it is true that the wires in a vinyl sheath might be protected from heat longer and could be in better condition, if that plastic sheath has been sitting near a hot engine for years, then the protection is minimal and short-lived.   I have opened many vinyl covers of old harnesses that were near the engine only to find bundles of wires with no insulation left at all.

Q: Are the used harnesses you sell ORIGINAL VOLVO PARTS?
A: The used ones I offer (when I have them) are always original Volvo parts, unless stated otherwise.   I also offer aftermarket harnesses, as many of the original parts  are no longer available. Aftermarket harnesses are also high in quality, and can usually be offered for less money than the high-priced genuine Volvo harnesses were.  Aftermarket harnesses are clearly identified as such in my site.

NOTE: All later replacement harnesses are assigned different (newer) part numbers than the original harnesses they replaced.  For example, the original part number for the 1980 240 harness was 1259454.  Volvo then changed the number of it's later replacement harness to 3515395, and now the most current version is 9139228.  If you are still uncertain about a particular part number fitting your car, you may call your local Volvo dealer parts department to verify the number needed for your application, or feel free to send me a message and I'll be happy to help.

Q: What about the fuel injector connections on EFI models?  Do they need to be placed in a certain firing order?
A: No.  These connections on any 240 or 700 model all contain the same wire circuits and are interchangeable.  This is because these electronic fuel injectors fire all at once when running. This is known as "batch fire."  You will notice that the injector leads are different lengths.  The only thing you need to be concerned with is arranging these leads for the best fit so that each connector comfortably reaches an injector without being stretched or strained.

Q: I'm cautious about buying a USED electrical part.  What if it doesn't work?
A: Buying any used part has risks.  There is always the possibility of hidden damage.  For any used harness that I sell, I take a lot of time cleaning and carefully inspecting each one before offering it for sale.  I have sold over 500 of these harnesses over the years and NEVER has one been defective.  Keep in mind that I back all used harnesses with a 100% satisfaction guarantee and if a customer thinks he might have a problem with a used harness I will work diligently to either solve it or take back the harness and return a full refund.  This guarantee applies even if you don't like the appearance of the used harness (see Return Policy above for details).  I'm a Volvo enthusiast and it's your satisfaction I want.   I believe in keeping good customer relations and I have a lot of repeat customers as a result.

Q: How do I know that a new or used "later replacement harness" will not rot away after a few years like the original one did?  I understand it took several years before they began to fall apart.
A: Yes, in most cases it took several years for the original ones to began deteriorating. Some took 30 years, some as few as 10 years. The Turbo cars had more heat under the hood and those went faster.   And cars that were in mild or cooler climate areas (like northern Europe) did much, much better than cars in hot desert regions.  I talked with a former Volvo technician from Phoenix, Arizona, who told me they had to replace harnesses in many of these cars by the time they were 3 years old. 

But the new later replacement harnesses (which Volvo began making after 1988) have proven themselves for many years now.  I have examined hundreds of older Volvos with replacement harnesses, as well as hundreds of 1988 and newer Volvos, and the you rarely find issues in the later harnesses, even after being used for years.  The visual difference between an original defective harness and a later one is easy to see.  If the later harnesses were going to fail, I would have seen evidence of it long ago.

Q: I have rotting wires at the plug near the firewall on my 240.  Since this is NOT part of the new replacement harness I'm replacing, where can I get new wires and connectors for this area?
A: Your Volvo dealer still sells replacement bullet and socket connectors with wire "pig-tails" just for this purpose (see photo at right).  They only offer them in white.  The Volvo part number for the female socket piece is 3523813 (shown in photo to the right) and 1323247 for the male bullet pigtail.  If you need the rectangular gray 8-pole harness connector housing (bullet or socket housing), it now comes in black only and is Volvo PN 967808 for the female socket housing and 967809 for the male bullet housing. 

And beginning in 2013, I now carry these parts in my Harness Parts Page (CLICK HERE).

Q:  When splices are made in a harness, do you recommend crimping or soldering?
A:  Many experts will recommend soldering because it provides a more solid connection with less chance for corrosion to occur and degrade the connection.  Soldering can be more important in wet climates or high-corrosion environments.  Soldering is more time-consuming and it still needs to be insulated (use heat shrink tubing if possible... tape if necessary).  Soldering has it's limits and can crack under stress, movement or vibration.

For my own car projects, most of the connections I make are crimped (as were all of Volvo's connections originally and all of the connections in their current harnesses).  So I see nothing wrong with crimping, as long as it's done with care.  If you are going to crimp using insulated butt-splices, etc., please purchase a quality crimping tool like the one pictured and use the crimp area that has the protrusion for deep crimps.  Please do not rely on cheap stamped-steel crimpers like the ones you see for a few dollars in discount auto parts stores.  A quality crimper will cost you $20-$30 and up and will last the rest of your life.

Also, for increased corrosion protection, the following tip was contributed by Ronald Kwas:
"Here's an informative page on the benefits of Zinc Anti-Corrosive Paste...  http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm, which can be used to make a reliable, corrosion resistant crimp connection.  If there's green stuff growing, it can't be good, and a long time ago, I learned about the benefits of ZACP... especially in old automotive systems."
 

Q: What about the harness that goes to the ignition ECU or other ignition components on a 240?  Is that part of the ENGINE wire harness?
A: No. While the engine wire harness does have a connection to the ignition harness in a 240, Volvo made the two harnesses separate.  If you need an ignition harness for a 240, it is a separate part. 

Before criticizing Volvo for making these harnesses separate and making life more complicated, consider that on many 240 models more than one type of ignition was offered.  For instance, the '83-'84 240 non-turbo Main Engine Harness didn't change during those two years, but more than one type of ignition appeared on these cars in the USA (Bosch and Chrysler), therefore more than one type of ignition harness was required to make it all work.

There is very good news about 240 ignition harnesses:  99% of them never had any problems associated with bad insulation.  So it is very likely you will not need to replace your ignition harness, except of course if damage occurs through other means, such as a fire, a short circuit, rubbing and chaffing on another part of the engine until there is a hole it it, etc.  The bad news is that if you do need one, they are not available.  It may be possible to find a used one in places like eBay.  Otherwise a repair would be a good alternative.

Q:  I ran across some discussions on the Brickboard that indicated the routing of the harness under the front of the engine in a 240 is a bad idea, and that it should instead go across the firewall and down the right fender.  What are your thoughts on this, and if this is preferred, where/how would the harness best be attached on the firewall and fender?
A:  If Volvo had done this, the disintegrating harness problem would have been much smaller, because engine heat is what caused the harnesses to fail.  But this does not solve the problem in that the early harnesses were made with inferior insulation and would probably all fail anyway... just later.  The later harnesses can handle the heat.  So I think it's a matter of opinion that routing a harness under the front of the engine is a bad idea.  It's a matter of choice.  All engine harnesses must come in close contact with a hot engine at some point.  Routing under the engine is the shortest route.  It's a long way around the engine bay to the alternator, oil pressure sender (and on some, the ignition ECU).  If you want to modify a harness and extend the alternator and sensor leads, you might consider getting a larger sized alternator cable.  The original alternator cable is approximately 6 or 8 gauge.  A longer alternator section would be better off with at least 4 gauge.   Sender wires can remain the same size.
 
Engine heat does a couple things to the harness.  It slowly hardens the outer black vinyl protective sheath and it eventually becomes hard enough that it can break open if flexed.  This does not, in itself, hurt the harness wires.  Heat can also harden the insulation of the wires eventually.  The old original harnesses couldn't handle it as the insulation would crumble away.  The newer harnesses might get a little stiff after a number of years, but that's all.

The flexing of the harness once things start to harden is a big enemy.  Mounting the wires to the firewall and fenders needs to be secure so there is very little or no movement and definitely NO chaffing.  Use plenty of plastic zip-ties to bind the new wires in various locations.  Be sure to leave a little slack for engine movement and check that area occasionally since, as menti
oned, movement and flexing is generally not good for the long life of any harness.

Q: Where can I locate the Volvo Part Number on a wire harness?
A: There are a few locations where the part number can be located and it is different on some harnesses, however some original harnesses did not have one.  All new or newer original Volvo harnesses will have a blue and white label (photo at right) on the black vinyl cover near one end (unless it has fallen off, which happens).  On 700 series engine harnesses this label is nearest the gray 8-pin connectors near the right fender. 

Also on 700 series engine harnesses you will find the part number printed on a red vinyl tube (photo at right) located on one of the wires coming from a gray plastic 8-pin connector (usually near the left fender). 

200 series harnesses will have the blue and white label (photo at right) on the black vinyl covering near the ECU connector under the right side dash (for 83-84 and 85-87 240 non-turbos).  The red tube with the part number will usually be located on the yellow or yellow/white wire going to the coolant temperature sender in the left side of the cylinder head under the intake manifold
.

Q: What is the difference in QUALITY between a GENUINE VOLVO versus an AFTERMARKET harness?
A: When I first discovered there were new aftermarket harnesses out there many years ago, I was skeptical of the quality at first.  They were less expensive than new original Volvo ones and I thought they might be inferior also, untill I was able to see them up close.  I changed my mind after seeing them in person. Most of the plastic connectors are the same high quality genuine Volvo connectors and a few are made by companies like Tyco and AMP and are equal in quality.  SEE PHOTOS.   And the biggest difference I found was the aftermarket manufacturers used a higher grade of wire (designed to withstand higher temperatures). 

The aftermarket harnesses described above are now no longer available.  Suddenly there were no more suppliers of any new harnesses for 1980-87 Volvos.  So a couple years ago I partnered with a harness manufacturer in the Netherlands to have new engine harnesses made again.  These are the new harnesses now available in this page.  This gave me the opportunity to make a few needed design changes.  Most of you would never notice, but some of the changes included lengthening certain branches that were a bit tight in original harnesses. 


Q: Why are AFTERMARKET harnesses CHEAPER than GENUINE VOLVO harnesses?
A:  Genuine Volvo harnesses are no longer available, but the answer is that genuine Volvo harnesses were always simply overpriced, like many parts purchased directly from a Volvo dealer. 
 


Q: What are the CONVERTED aftermarket harnesses you're offering for some 200 and 700 series cars?
A: It should be no real surprise that a few of these harnesses are interchangeable (or closely similar) between years.  Often the changes Volvo made from one year to the next were minor.  On a few harnesses only one or two wires was changed during a year change.   I discovered these similarities over many years of working with these harnesses and making diagrams. 

In some cases, a closely related harness may be modified without even cutting any original harness wires.  Sometimes it's as simple as adding a wire for a ground or in an empty spot on a connector.  When a wire like this is added, proper terminals are used.   Other times it might involve converting a sensor plug for a different type of sender.  These are usually minor details.  Conversions like this allow me to offer a greater range of available engine harnesses for your Volvos. All such conversions are guaranteed to perform perfectly.

End of FAQ's
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

OTHER ISSUES:
Strange Engine Harness Issue in some cases: Related to 1979-81 240 and 1981-85 240 Turbos.

This is a rather strange issue that took a while to figure out.  I first heard about it from a post at Brickboard.com.  As it turns out, in some cases when installing a new Volvo harness #9139228 (1979-81 240) or #3515393 (1981-85 240 Turbo), a small modification might be needed for some cars. The Control Pressure Regulator (CPR) is a common item on K-Jet engines. It has an electrical plug from the engine harness. It has been discovered that the POLARITY of the 2-pole plug wire on some new harnesses needed to be reversed to get it to work correctly.  The symptom found after installing a new harness (or new CPR) was that the main fuel pump FUSE blows when starting the car.

To know for sure if this could affect you, you would
need to test the resistance of each of the two connecting points on the CPR to ground and make sure that the contact for the black wire on the CPR has zero or near-zero resistance. In some cases you would need to reverse the two wires in the harness plug so the black wire is going to the one with near-zero resistance. Below is an old post found in the Brickboard archives about this, which was originally posted by Steve Seekins.

"Did you check all your fuses? On some models with the Bosch K-Jet injection system, the connections for the Control Pressure Regulator (under the manifold) are different and require removing the wire terminals from the connector and moving (reversing) them. Failure to do so causes a short and blows the main fuel pump fuse. Obviously the car will not start without the main fuel pump running. There was an article on this in the Jul/Aug '98 Rolling Shade Tree Mechanic column.  The problem is that there was a change in the CPR and the connector pins were reversed. The connector has two leads - BLUE and BLACK. Some folks may have a problem and others not depending on the year and whether or not the CPR has been replaced. You can check the CPR pins with an ohm meter. One terminal should read 0 ohms (between pin and the case), and the other between 10 and 20 ohms (between pin and the case). The BLACK lead from the connector should be connected to the pin that reads 0 ohms.  If not, peel the harness connector boot back and use a small pick or thin wire to release the terminals from the connector and swap them."

Editor's note:  Keep in mind, this is a very rare phenomenon. I have actually only heard from a couple of customers over the years who discovered this issue applied to their cars.


One of my customers, Dick Reiss, took the time to post the following directions on the Brickboard after completing his wire harness installation on his 1987 740 GLE (non-turbo).  He gave me permission to publish it here.  (Note: '85 and '86 740 GLE replacement will be nearly identical. 700 Turbo car replacement will have some differences as some components are in different locations)

For those feeling threatened by this job, it can be done relatively easily, in my case under 4 hours of puttering slowly.

First, unhook the ground battery cable.
Remove the intake hose from the AMM to the throttle body (different for turbo cars).
Remove the idle speed motor (under intake manifold), sliding it out of its holder. Hoses too.
Remove the top portion of the flame trap and hoses (through top of intake manifold).
Under the intake manifold... unhook the inline wire connector to the AC compressor -- makes it easier to work in the area.
Jack up passenger side of car and remove the belly/splash pan.
Remove oil pressure sender wire -- a round push together type clip holds the connector to the oil pressure sender on the block.

Remove the two 10 mm nuts and clamps holding the oil pressure wire to the underside of the engine. Take clamps off the wire.
Label all the wires you remove and/or write them down noting colors ---DO IT!!! You can screw up!
Remove the two red wires (one fat cable and one small one) from rear of the alternator.
You might detach the blue ground wire from the alternator too as it will be easier to work in the area.

Remove the clamp behind alternator holding the wires to the intake manifold brace -- 10 mm hex bolt.
Remove the top 10 mm hex bolt holding the power steering resevoir to the fender and loosen the bottom one. Now lay it over toward the firewall. The harness is routed under it and this will allow it to be removed.
Trace the old harness from the engine to the fender and you will find another clamp on the driver's side fender that needs to be removed -- 8 mm hex bolt.
Unplug the large gray 8-wire connector and the AMM connector on the driver's side fender (this plug will only plug back in one way).

Lay out your new harness and get acquainted with it.  Label the connections.
Now start to remove the old harness beginning from the driver's side fender moving toward the engine and start to plug in new stuff. This is a real mess of wires and connectors, but your labels will help. Look carefully at the routing of the harness around the flame trap and dip stick. It will help if you route your new harness in a smiliar manner.

Under the Intake Manifold: Remove the knock sensor connector and temp sensor connector (gray).  The knock sensor cable is NOT replaced with a new one from the engine harness, it's just easier to work with it out of the way.

Remove the large red cable (13 mm hex nut) and female wire connector on the starter, remembering to write it down and label what goes where (there are two connections on the starter that the small female connector will fit on.... but only one is correct.  This is the most common "no-start" problem for installers).

You may need to snip a number of black nylon cable zip-ties along the way.

Unplug the coolant sensor connector (this is a 2-wire spring type connector) by the heater hose inlet on the head (under the intake manifold). Look for more zip-ties to clip.

Go along the firewall and try to unhook the heavy black zips-ties holding the old harness --- they will probably break since they're brittle.  Now you can remove most of the old harness from the engine area and install the new.

Passenger fender:  Remove the two large Phillips screws holding the coil in place and lay it toward the center of the engine bay.
Clip the zip-tie holding the two large gray plugs under the diagonal brace and remove the one wire from the coil that goes to the old engine harness (write down which side of the coil it plugged in to).
After removing more zip-ties you can remove the old harness completely and replace the new. Install new zip-ties where old ones were.  Don't get stingy on these as the harness needs to be held well. Recheck and reinstall things as they were.

This is a good time to service oil and flame trap area if needed.  The main thing is ensuring success is to make drawings, write things down and label harness connections, both old and new.

And finally, here is an excellent article on Volvo chassis grounds and other good stuff that I thought was so good, I wanted to share it with you...
Volvo Electrical System Service: In Search of Good Grounds, Bob Kraft, ImportCar
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic129744.htm

 
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