VOLVO RELAYS
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FUEL INJECTION, FUEL PUMP, OVERDRIVE & OTHER RELAYS
and CRANK POSITION SENSORS

Volvo 240s and 740s are well known for their reliability and for going many miles longer than most other cars.  But many of their RELAYS (Fuel Pump Relays, Radio Suppression Relays, etc) are widely known for failing sometime after around ten or more years of service.  I don't really think these relays were built that poorly.... I think it might be the cars are so well built, they simply outlast some of their electronic components. 
So, at least for Volvos, it appears these relays can be considered "wear items."

If one of these relays fails away from home, it could be costly (high towing expenses, wild mechanic's diagnoses, etc.). 
Even though these are VERY common failures and SHOULD be widely known by anyone who works on these cars professionally, I have seen MANY mechanics insist a Volvo needs a new fuel pump, fuel injection computer, air mass meter and other expensive parts, when in the end it's discovered it was ONLY A SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE RELAY which you can plug in yourself. 


Spare Fuel Pump Relay:  I have experienced a fuel pump relay failure in FOUR of my Volvos over the years (240s and 740s).  After one particularly stupid $200 tow bill,  I made it a point to replace the original Fuel Pump Relays in my older Volvos with NEW ones, and I carry a used old one as a spare in my glovebox just in case.  If you have older or original relays (10 years and up) in your Volvos, or if you are experiencing intermittent or temperature related fuel or electrical issues, maybe it's time for a replacement before it leaves you stranded.

I had a 1990 740 Turbo a number of years ago.  When it was close to 8 or 10 years old, it began developing intermittent stalling, but would eventually start back up after a few minutes.  After it happened  to my wife twice, she refused to drive the car.  I could not re-create it when searching or testing.  I figured it had to be a relay or crank sensor, and THIS CAR HAS TWO RELAYS that are prone to failure.  So I replaced the Fuel Pump Relay (3523608), Noise Suppression Relay (1323592) and Crank Position Sensor (3547847), all at once. Sure enough, one of those was the problem and the car was good after that.   Because this is so common in Volvos, I keep all three of these items in stock here just in case any of you need them.  They fit '88 to '93 240's (except the 240 uses the 1323592 as the cooling fan relay), '88 to '92 740's and most '91 to '95 940's.

CAUTION Regarding COOLING FAN RELAY FIRES in late 240s
I was warned by a long-time Volvo tech regarding a number of instances where older Cooling Fan Relays (PN 1323592) were causing fires under the hoods of 240s (1988 to '92).  No explanation was given, but perhaps it was related to the high loads associated with the auxillary cooling fan.  He said it became common enough to recommend replacement of any Cooling Fan Relay over a certain age.

Here's a Brickboard post regarding a couple of Radio Suppression Relay replacements....
"I have had two cars which had a problem with this relay. It is black, usually on the passenger side by the anti-freeze expansion tank. The part number is 1323592-1.  My 740 had poor acceleration and hard cold weather starting here in Minnesota. The problem did not change with a replacement L-engine out of a 1993 940 (non-turbo). Changing the relay made a huge difference in both acceleration and cold weather starting. The reason I put in an L-engine is because the old K-engine froze with a broken intake valve. I have always wondered whether the relay, which supplies a ground to the fuel injection, could have had high resistance contacts leading to the injectors not injecting a rich enough mixture so the engine ran lean?  The second case of this relay going bad was fixed two nights ago. My 1995 940 (non-turbo) with 69K miles had poor acceleration and would surge slightly while running steady.  I thought the problem could be related to the years in storage even though I started it periodically and had a full tank of gas with stabilizer.  I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the IAC valve and throttle bottle, checked fuel pressure and volume, and I could not find anything wrong. Then I changed the relay and again, it was like a different car."

Here are some emails I received about more relay success stories...
"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!"  M.L.

"Hi Dave. Well probably no surprise to you....the cars working fine now after three months of pulling my hair out, 2 tows and 8 trips to the mechanic.  Your right...too few know of this fix... I'm mechanically inclined, yet can't believe I solved this one with your help with relays from Hungary... of all places...amazing. The car currently has 145K and is a honey.  Your the best."  B.L., Martha's Vineyard, MA

"Hey Dave, Thank you so much. Your hypothesis that failing relays causing intermittent problems was spot on!  I replaced the Overdrive Relay and it instantly fixed my phantom shifting/not shifting overdrive problems also, the car seems to auto shift at the appropriate times and RPM's more precisely, the way I remember it did.  Then I replaced the Fuel Injection Relay and the intermittent stalls have disappeared - a major boost of confidence before Holiday travels!  Holding off on the Noise Suppression Relay and Crank sensor for now because it's running so well!  I did a lot of web crawling before I found your site and can confirm there are lots of 740 owners with the same issues - most seem to spend a bunch on Fuel Pumps and Mass Air Sensors and just about everything else, often without success.  I'd encourage you to post on the various boards out there regarding Intermittent Stalling and Overdrive issues... $80 for the two relays I installed in a couple of minutes and a now in a world of Volvo goodness!"  E.S., Blue Lake, CA


TESTING RELAYS
I have received a lot of emails over the years asking how to test these relays. Since I'm only an "amateur Volvo tech," the only test I know for a relay is swapping it with another (try a used one if you have one). 
As for the Crank Position Sensor
(240: '89 to '93, 740: '89 to '92, 940: all 4-cylinder models), I hear of them going out often enough in later 240/740 models that I would consider changing it if you suspect it's original.  It will be MUCH HARDER TO CHANGE if it fails on some back-country road.  I don't know how they are tested or what to expect if one is tested.  The Crank Position Sensor may also be known as an Engine Speed Sensor or Crank Impulse Sender. 
Here is a good Brickboard post on these sensors
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=807903

Here is some excellent info on Volvo fuel pump relays:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#Hot_Fuel_Pump_Relay

  Here are some Volvo 240 and 700 Relay Locations

COULD IT BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A RELAY?
What about Volvo fuel pumps?
  The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps)

A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... g
ive it a quick rap with a wrench when cranking the engine (power going to the pump).  If the pump is bad, often the jolt will make it come to life and stay running until you shut it off.  This trick can get you back on the road and get you home.  If it's a bad relay, this will NOT work.

TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMP
How to "JUMP" the fuel pump in a Volvo 240:

 The fastest method to make the fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel).

You can make a jumper from a straightened paper clip or use a wire with stripped ends. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results (see photo)

For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7. 
For a 1985-93, jump fuse circuit  #4 to #6.


If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you will definitely hear it),  you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (assuming your battery is good). If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit is shorting to ground somewhere between you and the pump.

How to "JUMP" the fuel pump in a Volvo 740:
(If someone knows this trick, please send it to me.)

IN-TANK PUMP (PRE-PUMP) ISSUES
Applies to 240 and 700 models

This is a pretty common problem in Volvos reaching ages of 15 years and older.  Often the actual pre-pump is NOT the problem, but the RUBBER FUEL HOSE that goes from the pre-pump to the metal tube in the tank falls apart after many years of being submerged in fuel.  When this hose ruptures, the pre-pump becomes ineffective and the main pump under the car tries to make up the difference.  It often can't keep up, especially when your tank is around one half full or less, when your fuel level is at or below the hose rupture.  Opening the tank and replacing the hose is the cure.  A simple piece if fuel injection hose works fine.  You might be shocked to find out how many people have been told they need new fuel pumps when only a short piece of fuel injection hose was needed.


These parts are available below if you need one. 
Some are requested fairly often, so I keep them in stock. 
The other relays are available, but I will have to order them. 
That adds about 2-3 days to an order.

3523639 Fuel Injection Relay.  New Relay, TK (aftermarket, Made in Germany),
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay.
GREEN (K-Jetronic), 
240 DL 78-82 w/K-Jet,
240 Turbo 81-85,
260 78-82,
760 (non-turbo, V6) 83-86.
  ONE In Stock                    
  $45.00 ea.  


Order Quantity:
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3523608 Fuel Injection Relay. New Relay, Original Volvo (made by Stribel).
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay.
WHITE in color (LH-Jetronic),
Fits 240 DL/GL 85-93 all,
740 85-92 all, 
760 87 only,
780 87-91 all (4 and 6 cyl),
940/940 Turbo 91-95.
Location of 700-900 relays: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#RelayLocations
PAY ATTENTION: Some 760 and 900 models take the green relay below.


I keep these in stock
Dealer list: $51.00
Your price: $40.00 ea.

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1362914 Fuel Injection Relay. 
GREEN with White base (LH-Jetronic),
760 88-90 (6 cyl),
960/940SE 91-93.
Location of 700-900 relays: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#RelayLocations

One in stock
Dealer list: $53.00
Your price: $42.00 ea.

Order Quantity:
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1323592 Radio Suppression Relay.  Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some models.
Fits '88-'93 240, '88-'92 700, '91-'95 940 & 940 Turbo.
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel).
(The failure of this relay will cause a No-Start condition)
This relay is likely mounted under the hood at the right shock tower or near the coolant reservoir.  For B230FT (turbo) engines this relay is likely mounted near the left shock tower.
On some models you will find TWO of these.  In these cases they function as a Radio Suppression Relay and a Cooling Fan Relay.  They are interchangable and can even be swapped during an emergency if one fails.  If the Radio Suppression Relay starts going bad, you may get intermittent starting problems (and/or intermittant running) since the electrical pulse to the injectors will be interrupted. If the engine turns over OK, but it won't fire, then this could be the problem.  Follow this link for a good discussion on these relays: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=732937
I keep these in stock
Dealer list: $55.00
Your Price: $38.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3547847   Crank Position Sensor. 
AKA: Crank Impulse Sender, Engine Speed Sensor.

OEM manufacturer Bougicord.
For 240 1989-93,
700 non-turbo 1989-92,

700 Turbo 1990-92, 900 ALL w/4cylinder.
Located near top passenger side of transmission bell
housing behind engine.               
ONE In Stock                
  $46.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3523804   Overdrive Relay
OEM manufacturer Hella

Below models with AUTOMATIC transmission:
240 1985-1993, 240 Diesel 1985, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1992, 740 Diesel 1986, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1992, 760 1983-1987, 760 Diesel 1984-1985, 760 GLE 1988-1990, 760 Turbo 1984-1990, 780 1987-1991, 780 Turbo 1986-1990, 940 1991-1995, 940 Turbo 1991-1995.


ONE In Stock                
  $44.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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Click on Photo for Larger Image
1307991 240 Headlight "Step" Relay, High/Low Beam, Genuine Volvo Part
for 240 - all years.
ONE In Stock
$49.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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**Installation info regarding EARLY versus LATE 240s.

Volvo PN 1324749
Bosch PN 0332-015-006 
(superceded from 0332-204-126) 
New metal case relay, Original Volvo
  "K" relay.  This relay is used in a few different places.
1. Fuel pump relay
for
1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 
2. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in this car).
3. Headlight relay (in dash or behind brake pedal) for 1986-93 240 (1 is used).
4. Oxygen Sensor relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
5. Multi-purpose relay for 240 Turbo 1981.
6. Fuel injection relay for 1975-77 240 and 260.
7. Seat heater relay for 740 1985-88, 740 Turbo 1985-89, 780 1987.
8. Central lock relay for 940 (Unsure if all years. Check yours).


IN STOCK

 $25.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $18.00 ea. (limited offer while supply lasts)
 

Order Quantity ($25.00 for 1):

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1307793  Overdrive Relay (the ORANGE one)
For 240 1981-1984 with AUTOMATIC transmission

Limited availability, please email.
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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1259750  Overdrive Relay (the BLUE one)
For below models with MANUAL transmission
240 1981-1984, 240 Diesel 1981-1984, 240 Turbo 1981-1984, 260 1981-1982, 260 Diesel 1981, 760 1984.
Limited availability, please email.
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3523805  Overdrive Relay (the RED one)
For below models with MANUAL transmission
240 1985-1993, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1991, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1991, 760 1985-1986, 760 GLE 1988, 760 Turbo 1985-1990.
Limited availability, please email.
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3545803 Fuel Injection Relay
for 850 '93-'97, 850 GLT '95-'97, 850R '97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95.
Original Volvo Part (made by Stribel).
Available spec order only
$40.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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9434225 Fuel PUMP Relay
for 850 '93-'97, 850 Turbo '94-'96, 850 GLT '97, 850R '96-'97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95, C70 '98-'04, S70 &V70 '98-'00.
Aftermarket Part (made by KAE).
Available spec order only
$49.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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1363449 Air Conditioning Relay
for 240/260 all '81-'93,
740/760 all '83 to '92,
780 all '86 to '91, Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel).
Available spec order only
$45.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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9442468  Turn Signal Flasher Relay
Fits 240 DL, GL '85-93, 240 Turbo '81-84
260 '76-'82, 740 '85-92, 760 '84-'87,
760 GLE '88-'90, 760 Turbo '85-'90, 780 all,
850 '94, 940 '91-'95, 960 '92-'97.
Available spec order only
$25.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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9442933 Cooling Fan Relay (2 speed),
for 740 92 and newer, 940/960 92 and newer, 850 all.
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel)
Old PN 3523872
Available spec order only
$55.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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Headlight Relay: Installation info regarding EARLY versus LATE 240s.
Volvo 240s remained about as consistent as any car could be for their 18 year production. One change in the headlamp relay has been discovered and this small article will explain the solution. The two relays in the photo on the left are both assigned part number 1307991 (the relay available above), however, there is a small difference. The one on the LEFT is the new part available now. It is the same as relays used in 240s from 1975 until approximately 1989. The one on the RIGHT is the different one and was used from 1990 to 1993. The later one appears to be NOT available anywhere on THIS planet. Either relay will work for your 240, but the difference is noted
.
The difference: The early relay (on the left) has two extra pins (don't worry about these, they make NO difference). The later relay (on the right) is turned 180 degrees on it's mounting bracket. Why Volvo made this change is beyond my imagination. This 180 degree turn presents a potential problem on later 240s, as it may strain the wire harness to twist it 1/2 turn so it can be plugged in. The solution for this is simple... I'll show you how you can remove the connector pins from the socket plugs, turn the sockets 180 degrees, and replace the pins. The instructions for this procedure are below...

Removing and Replacing Connector Pins:
CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR LARGER IMAGES
This first photo shows the relay removed and the two socket plugs sitting there waiting for action by a Volvonut.






Here we have a typical relay socket plug used in Volvos. This isn't a headlight socket, but it'll do for this demonstration.
Notice the connector pins inside the little holes? Not all the holes have pins. If you're curious which ones do, or you want to see the diagram, scroll down.








You'll need a tool for this part... a long sharp pick will do. If it's not small enough on the tip, a little grinding action will fix it, like I did on this one.



Now, pay attention to the opening at the top of the little rectangular hole. That wide spot is where you're insert your pick. The idea is to insert the pick in about 3/8 inch or so and push down or flatten a hook or barb that holds the pin in the socket. In the next photos, the barb will be easy to see.

If your socket doesn't have a wider opening that you can see, just pay attention to the below pics to know which side of the pin to insert the pick into.




In this photo you can see the pin backing out of the hole.






Here's a good view of the hook or barb. After you flatten the barb and pull the pin out, the barb may need to be pushed back out. It must be sticking out like in this photo, or it will not catch properly when re-inserted.

Now turn your sockets around and re-insert the pins. Make sure the barb is on the correct side. As it gets inserted, you should hear a 'click' which tells you it's locked. Make sure by giving the wire a little tug.



And here is how the wire colors go.


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