VOLVO RELAYS
and Related Parts
W O R L D W I D E   S H I P P I N G
Return to Main Page       UPDATED: December 15, 2011                 SHIPPING      VIEW CART
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FUEL INJECTION, FUEL PUMP, OVERDRIVE & OTHER RELAYS
and CRANK POSITION SENSORS

Volvo 240s and 740s are well known for their reliability and for going many years and miles longer than most other cars.  But some of their CRITICAL RELAYS are known for failing sometime after around 10 to 20 years of service.  I don't really know if these relays were built that poorly.... I think it might be the cars are so well built, they simply outlast some of their electronic components. 
So, at least for Volvos, it appears there are some relays that can be considered "wear items."

If one of these critical relays fails away from home, it could be costly (high towing expenses, wild mechanic's diagnoses, etc.). 
Even though some of these relays are VERY common failures and SHOULD be widely known by anyone who works on these cars professionally, I have seen MANY mechanics insist a Volvo needs a new fuel pump, fuel injection computer, air mass meter and other very expensive parts, when in the end it was discovered it was ONLY A SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE $50 RELAY, which you can plug in yourself. 

Should You Carry a Spare Fuel Pump Relay?:
  I have experienced an inconvenient fuel pump relay failure in FIVE of my Volvos over the years (240s and 740s).  After one particularly stupid $200 tow bill,  I made it a point to replace the original Fuel Pump Relays in my older Volvos with NEW ones, and then I carry a good used one as a spare in my glovebox, just in case.  If you have older or original relays (10 years and up) in your Volvos, or if you are experiencing intermittent or temperature related fuel related stalls or electrical issues, maybe it's time for a relay replacement before it leaves you stranded.

I had a 1990 740 Turbo a number of years ago.  When it was close to 10 years old, it began to develop intermittent stalling while driving, but it would eventually start back up after a few minutes of rest.  After it happened to my wife twice, she refused to drive the car!  I could not re-create it when searching or testing.  I figured it had to be a relay or crank sensor, and THIS CAR HAS TWO RELAYS that are commonly prone to failure.  So I replaced the Fuel Pump Relay (3523608), Radio Noise Suppression Relay (1323592) and Crank Position Sensor (3547847), all at once. Sure enough, one of those was the problem and the car was good after that.   Because this is so common in Volvos, I keep all three of these items in stock here just in case any of you need them. 

CAUTION Regarding Potential COOLING FAN RELAY FIRES in late model 240s
While I have never actually seen this happen.... I was warned by a long-time Volvo tech regarding a number of instances where older Cooling Fan Relays (PN 1323592) were causing fires under the hoods of 240s (starting around 1988 to '92).  No further explanation was given, but perhaps it was related to the high loads associated with the auxillary cooling fan.  He said it became common enough to recommend replacement of any Cooling Fan Relay over a certain age.

Here's a Brickboard post regarding a couple of Radio Suppression Relay replacements....
"I have had two cars which had a problem with this relay. It is black, usually on the passenger side by the anti-freeze expansion tank. The part number is 1323592-1.  My 740 had poor acceleration and hard cold weather starting here in Minnesota. The problem did not change with a replacement engine out of a 1993 940 (non-turbo). Changing this relay made a huge difference in both acceleration and cold weather starting. The reason I put in another engine is because the old engine froze with a broken intake valve. I have always wondered whether the relay, which supplies a ground to the fuel injection, could have had high resistance contacts leading to the injectors not injecting a rich enough mixture so the engine ran lean?  The second case of this relay going bad was fixed two nights ago. My 1995 940 (non-turbo) with 69K miles had poor acceleration and would surge slightly while running steady.  I thought the problem could be related to the years in storage even though I started it periodically and had a full tank of gas with stabilizer.  I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the IAC valve and throttle body, checked fuel pressure and volume, and I could not find anything wrong. Then I changed this relay and again, it was like a different car."

Here are some emails I received about more relay success stories...
"I purchased a RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION RELAY for my 87 740 Turbo wagon a couple of months ago, and thought I'd drop you a note to tell you that the car has been running great, I've been driving it every day for about the last month, with NO STARTING ISSUES!!!  It was having intermittent starting issues, would be fine for a few days, then leave me stranded. I had replaced both fuel pumps and the fuel injection relay. It would start with a shot of starting fluid, then be okay for a few more days. I would have never thought that a radio noise relay would have an effect on my fuel injectors, but thanks to your site and all the information on it, I was steered in the right direction. You saved me from scrapping out a car that i truly enjoy to drive."  C.W.

"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!"  M.L.

"Hi Dave. Well probably no surprise to you....the car is working fine now after three months of pulling my hair out, 2 tows and 8 trips to the mechanic.  You're right...too few know of this fix... I'm mechanically inclined, yet can't believe I solved this one with your help with relays from Hungary... of all places...amazing. The car currently has 145K and is a honey.  Your the best."  B.L., Martha's Vineyard, MA

"Hey Dave, Thank you so much. Your hypothesis that failing relays causing intermittent problems was spot on!  I replaced the Overdrive Relay and it instantly fixed my phantom shifting/not shifting overdrive problems also, the car seems to auto shift at the appropriate times and RPM's more precisely, the way I remember it did.  Then I replaced the Fuel Injection Relay and the intermittent stalls have disappeared - a major boost of confidence before Holiday travels!  Holding off on the Noise Suppression Relay and Crank sensor for now because it's running so well!  I did a lot of web crawling before I found your site and can confirm there are lots of 740 owners with the same issues - most seem to spend a bunch on Fuel Pumps and Mass Air Sensors and just about everything else, often without success.  I'd encourage you to post on the various boards out there regarding Intermittent Stalling and Overdrive issues... $80 for the two relays I installed in a couple of minutes and a now in a world of Volvo goodness!"  E.S., Blue Lake, CA

"I had a great outcome with the C70 – I called my mechanic and asked him if he could replace the Fuel Pump Relay in the car.  He said it could be a number of things, but I told him I wanted to start with that first since it was a cheaper resolution and after researching it on your site, I felt pretty sure that was the problem.  Before, the car did the same thing when he tested it in the late day / HOT sun after sitting most of the day.  Car started up and died after a minute as if it were out of gas. Then he changed the relay and I’m back up and running!!   He charged me for his time and the relay – out the door for $100.  I think he should have paid me for finding the problem out for him.  (ha ha).  Thanks again. Even though it was a C70 and not the other model Volvos – the answer was the same.  I'll keep one of those in the glove compartment for sure!  Your site helped a ton!!  M.G.

TESTING VOLVO RELAYS
I have received a lot of emails over the years asking how to test a bad or intermittent relay. Since I'm only an "amateur Volvo tech," the best test I know for a relay is swapping it with another (try a used one if you have one). 
As for the Crank Position Sensor
(240: '89-'93, 740: '89-'92, 940: all 4-cylinder models), I hear of them going out often enough in later 240/740/900 models that I would consider changing it if you suspect it's original.  It will be MUCH HARDER TO CHANGE if it fails on some back-country road.  I don't know how they are tested or what to expect if one is tested.  The Crank Position Sensor may also be known as an Engine Speed Sensor or Crank Impulse Sender. 
Here is a good Brickboard post on these sensors
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=807903

Here is some excellent info on Volvo fuel pump relays:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#Hot_Fuel_Pump_Relay

  Here are some diagrams showing Volvo 240, 700 and 900 Relay Locations

VOLVO 240 HEADLIGHT RELAYS
Some 240s ('86-'93 only) are equipped with 2 different relays that control the headlights (earlier 240s have only the one step relay).

1.  High/Low Beam Step Relay, all year 240s, Volvo PN 1307991 (click here). This is the best known headlight relay, because it sits under the hood in plain sight. There are two versions of this relay. Click here to see this info.  This relay controls the switching (or stepping) between low and high beams. It's controlled by the stalk on your steering column. It has been known to fail when upwards of 10 to 20 years old, although some will last 30 years or longer without problems.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: You'll know it has failed if you can no longer switch between low and high beams (you can hear the audible 'click' if it's working).
Also, if your headlights go OFF when in low or high beam mode (only low beams work or only high beams work), then it is most likely this relay.




2. Main Headlight Relay,
'86-'93 240 only, Volvo PN 1324749 (or 1235013) (click here to see it), Bosch PN 0332015001,
0332015011, 0332015012, 0332015016.  This relay is more of a mystery to many 240 owners, because it's tucked away out of sight, under the dash.  In the '86-'87 240, it should be found behind the brake pedal area (see relay diagrams above). For the '88 or '89 to '93 240, it will be behind the center dash area, just below the accessory gauge locations (exact year of this change is not certain to me, but probably '88 or '89).  This relay fails far less often than the above step relay.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: Headlights turn off on their own after a short time (and your fuses are good). Headlights may come back on after switching them off, then on again... or you might need to wait a while and try again (cooling off period).  Or, headlights may not come on at all when the switch is turned, but your high beams will flash correctly when the steering column stalk is pulled back.

FAILURE OF VOLVO BULB FAILURE RELAYS
The Bulb Failure Relay is a device that alerts the driver of a failed low-beam headlamp, tail lamp or brake lamp by sensing the balance of current draw between the left and right side lighting circuits.   When that dash light comes on, it means the relay recognizes that one side is drawing more current that the other.  This usually means there is a bulb out, but occasionally, it can be triggered by incorrect or mismatched bulbs, or even sometimes when one side has a newer bulb than the other.

The red relay pictured at left is PN 1362370, which fits the 1986-93 240, 1986 and later 740, 780, and 1991-94 940.  Other variations for 200/700/900 Volvos include a yellow one, PN 1362278 (1978-85 240 and 740 through 1985),  another yellow one, PN 3545704 (1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960), and a blue one, PN 9128814 (same
1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960).

The failure of these relays is becoming more frequent in older Volvos. 
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: The symptoms of failure can be headlights or tailights (or often just one side) that will not work even after verifying that fuses, switches, headlight relays and wiring are all in good order.  


COULD IT BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A RELAY?
What about Volvo fuel pumps?
 
The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps)

A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... g
ive it a quick tap with a wrench.  For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is going to the pump).  If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come to life and it may stay running until you shut it off.  This trick can get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency.  If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this will NOT work as there will be no power going to your pump.  If this is the case, you might try the below relay bypass "jump" trick to get power going to the pump.

TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMP
How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit at your Volvo 240 fuse panel:

 The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel).

You can make a jumper from a wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results (see photo)

For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7. 
For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit  #4 to #6.


If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming),  you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is really common under an old 240, near the pump).  This test of course assumes your battery is good.
If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.
More detailed info can be found at http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm.

GETTING YOUR 240 HOME WITH A FUEL PUMP RELAY EMERGENCY
If you find the above jump test makes your fuel pump run and you don't have a spare relay with you (or if your spare doesn't work either), here's a trick that will get you home.

The simple trick of course is to jeep the jump wire (or paper clip) in place while driving.  Your pump will run continuously. This won't hurt it as long as you have fuel in the tank.  Keep in mind that when you turn off the car, your pump will continue running until you disconnect the jumper.  Trying to secure a jumper wire (or paperclip) to the fuse panel is very difficult. There is another way.  Find your fuel pump relay and unplug it.  Look at the plug. There will be a RED wire going into one pin in the plug.  That is the power from the battery.  Also find the YELLOW/RED wires (usually two of them going into ONE pin).  These go to the fuel pumps.  Jumping or connecting these two pins in the plug will be the same as jumping the two fuses shown above and it will be much easier to stick a paperclip into the plug pins.


IN-TANK PUMP (PRE-PUMP) ISSUES
Applies to all 240/260 and many 700 models

This is a VERY common problem in Volvos reaching the age of 15 years and older.  Often the actual in-tank pump is NOT broken, but the RUBBER FUEL HOSE that goes from the pre-pump to the metal feed tube inside the tank decomposes and falls apart after many years of being submerged in fuel.  When this hose ruptures, the in-tank pump can no longer push fuel out. The main pump under the car will try to make up the difference, but it can't keep up, especially when your tank is half full or less, when your fuel level is at or below that hose rupture.
A GOOD TEST:
If the symptoms go away after filling the tank up, then this is your problem. Opening the top of the tank (in the trunk or cargo area) and replacing that small hose is the cure.  A simple piece of 5/16 inch fuel injection hose about 3 inches long works fine.  And replace those cheesy hose clamps with nice new ones while you're at it.  You might be shocked to find out how many people have been advised by service technicians that they need new fuel pumps when only a short piece of fuel injection hose was needed.

More detailed info can be found at  http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm.


Non-Turbo 240?  -  Remember to check the LH Fuse for corrosion
On 1983 and later 240 non-turbos, the LH fuel injection system uses a 25 amp fuse located under your hood on the left side fender.  It is not in any type of sealed fuse holder, so the elements will cause corrosion to invade the connector after a number of years.  Often pulling out and re-inserting the fuse will cure this issue temporarily.  For a long-term fix, clean the contacts with a wire brush, or even better, replace that fuse holder with a water-tight one, like the one found here:
Volvo Harness Parts Page



AVAILABLE RELAYS
These parts are available below if you need one.  Some are requested fairly often, so I keep them in stock. 
The other relays may be available, but I may have to order them. That can add about 2-3 days to an order.

3523639 Fuel Injection Relay. 
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay.
GREEN (K-Jetronic), 
240 DL 78-82 w/K-Jet,
240 Turbo 81-85,
260 78-82,
760 (non-turbo, V6) 83-86.
  Limited availability. Special order.                    
  $0.00 please email for price.  


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FUEL PUMP RELAY MOD CLICK HERE


3523608 Fuel Pump/Injection Relay. New Relay, Original Volvo (made by Stribel).
Same as previous Volvo PN 1347603.
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay or Main Fuel System Relay.
WHITE in color.
Fits 240 DL/GL 85-93 all (LH-Jetronic),
740 85-92 all, 
760 87 6-cyl (see green relay below for 760 88-90 6-cyl),
780 87-91 all (4 turbo and 6 cyl),
940 non-turbo 91-93, 940 Turbo 91-95 (see green relay below for 940 SE and 960 6-cyl 91-93).
Location of most 700-900 relays:
http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

>>WARNING: Some 760 and 900 models take the green relay or blue relay below.<<

In Stock
Dealer list: $51.00
Your price: $42.00 ea.

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1362914 Fuel Injection Relay. 
GREEN with White base (LH-Jetronic),
760 1988-90 (6 cyl only),
 960 6 cyl and 940SE 1991-93.
Locations of most 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
NOTE: If you have a '93 or later 940/960 and this relay is not present, then the below blue relay may be your fuel pump relay.

OUT OF STOCK/NLA
Dealer list: $55.00


9130270 Fuel Pump Relay.  Also PN's 9128124, 9162250, and latest is 9494787.
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
Usually BLUE with a white base.
1994-95 940 non-turbo.
1994 960 6-cylinder.
This relay is not in the usual fuel pump relay location shown by diagrams I have listed above. Instead, it will usually be found in the front row, second from the right, in the fuse/relay board. If there is a second identical one to the right of it, that should be the high beam relay.

Also designated as a Heater/Fog relay for 1993 and later 850.

OUT OF STOCK/NLA through my sources, however any SPDT relay listed below (such asVolvo PN 1259926) can be substituted and will work perfectly.
Dealer list: $20.00


1323592 Noise Suppression Relay.  Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some models, and some have TWO (one for noise suppression and one for cooling fan).
Fits '87-'92 700, '91-'95 940 & 940 Turbo.  Also used as a cooling fan relay on many '88-'93 240s.
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel).
(The failure of this relay used as a Noise Suppression Relay will cause a No-Start or Intermittent Start condition)
This relay is mounted under the hood, often at the right shock tower or near the coolant reservoir.  For B230FT (turbo) engines this relay is often mounted near the left shock tower.
On some models you will find TWO of these.  In these cases one will function as a Noise Suppression Relay and the other a Cooling Fan Relay.  They are interchangable and can even be swapped during an emergency if the radio suppression relay fails.  If the Noise Suppression Relay starts going bad, you may get intermittent starting problems (and/or intermittant running) since the electrical pulse to the fuel injectors will be interrupted. If the engine turns over OK, but it won't fire, then this could be the problem. 
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
I keep these in stock
Dealer list: $55.00
Your Price: $42.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3547847   Crank Position Sensor. 
AKA: Crank Impulse Sender, Engine Speed Sensor.

OEM manufacturer Bougicord.
For 240 1989-93,
700 non-turbo 1989-92,

700 Turbo 1990-92, 900 ALL w/4cylinder.
Located near top of transmission bell
housing behind cylinder head.                
 

In Stock
               

  $46.00 ea.
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Click on Photo for Larger Image
1307991 240 Headlight "Step" Relay, High/Low Beam, Genuine Volvo Part
for 240 - all years.
ONE IN STOCK
$49.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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**CLICK HERE for Installation info regarding EARLY versus LATE Headlight Relays**

Volvo PN 1324749 (replacement for Volvo PN 1235893)
Bosch PN 0332-015-006 
(superceded from 0332-204-126)
Also replacement for Volvo PN 1259925 (Bosch 0332-019-151) and Bosch 0332-015-012 headlight relays.
New metal case relay, Original Volvo
  "K" relay.  This relay is used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in this car).
2. Headlight relay (in dash or behind brake pedal) for 86-93 240 (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Power window relay, 240 1978-93, 260 1978-81.
5. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93.
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
 

This relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram on it similar to this one here.  This type relay will usually have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87b (or sometimes just 87).  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are both given power at the same time.
Limited supply - 1 in Stock
 $27.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $22.00 ea. (limited offer while supply lasts)
 

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Volvo PN 1324749 (0332-15-006 Tyco)
Compatible replacement for above metal case "K" Relay.

Made by Tyco (formerly Bosch), same as Bosch PN 0332-015-006 
(superceded from 0332-204-126) 
Replacement for Volvo PN 1235893, 1259925 (Bosch 0332-019-151 and 0332-015-012 headlight relays.
This relay is used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in this car).
2. Headlight relay (in dash or behind brake pedal) for 86-93 240 (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Power window relay, 240 1978-93, 260 1978-81.
5. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93.
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf





This relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  This type relay will usually have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87b (or sometimes just 87).  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are both given power at the same time.

IN STOCK
 $12.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $10.00 ea.

 

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Volvo PN 1259926 (0332-209-151 Bosch)
The metal case relay on the left in No Longer Available.  The Bosch relay on the right is the permanent replacement, although now it is getting scarce.
Bosch
PN 0332-209-151, same as PN 0332-204-101, 0332-204-126. Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1324492, 1259926, 1308806, 1504952 (Bosch 0332-209-158, 0332-204-102 and 0332-204-110) fuel injection and heater fan relay. Original Bosch relay.  This relay is used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 
2. Central locking relay for 240/260 all years (2 used).
3. Central locking relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780
(2 used).
4.
Fuel Injection relay for 240/260 all years.
5. Lamda, ignition and oil level relay for 240/260.
6. Seat heater relay for 700 all years.
7. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series.
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  This type relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a.  With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power when the relay is off and power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.

Limited Availability  --  1 in Stock

 $16.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $16.00 ea. (limited supply, takes a few days extra to get)

 

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Volvo PN 1259926 (0332-204-101 Tyco)
NEW Compatible replacement for above Bosch metal or plastic case relay.
Made by Tyco (formerly Bosch), same as Bosch PN 0332-204-101, 0332-204-126, 0332-209-151
Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1324492, 1259926, 1308806, 1504952 (Bosch 0332-209-158, 0332-204-102 and 0332-204-110) fuel injection and heater fan relay.
1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 
2. Central locking relay for 240/260 all years (2 used).
3. Central locking relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780
(2 used).
4.
Fuel Injection relay for 240/260 all years.
5. Lamda, ignition and oil level relay for 240/260.
6. Seat heater relay for 700 all years.
7. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series.
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf


This relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  This type relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a.  With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power when relay is off and power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.
IN STOCK
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5-Pin Replacement RELAY SOCKET (Suitable for all above 5-pin relays).

Click here for tips on removing wire connector inserts from these sockets.

IN STOCK
 $2.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $1.50 ea.

 

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Locking terminals for above relay socket.
Two wire sizes available:
SMALL: 14-16 gauge (or smaller) wire.
LARGE: 10-12 gauge wire.

ALL IN STOCK


$0.40 ea.


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Volvo PN 1362900 Headlight Relay.
Found in relay locations A and E in diagrams for the 1988-90 760 and 1991-92 960/940SE.


OUT OF STOCK/NLA




OVERDRIVE RELAYS
3523804   Overdrive Relay (White)
Genuine VOLVO part, made in Germany by Hella

Below models with AUTOMATIC transmission:
240 1985-1993, 240 Diesel 1985, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1992, 740 Diesel 1986, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1992, 760 1983-1987, 760 Diesel 1984-1985, 760 GLE 1988-1990, 760 Turbo 1984-1990, 780 1987-1991, 780 Turbo 1986-1990, 940 1991-1995, 940 Turbo 1991-1995.

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
  One in Stock                
  $69.00 ea.
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1307793  Overdrive Relay (the ORANGE one)
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
For 240 1981-1984 with AUTOMATIC transmission


Limited availability, please email.
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
After adding to cart, please choose SHIPPING below (Click Here).


1259750  Overdrive Relay (the BLUE one)
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
For below models with MANUAL transmission
240 1981-1984, 240 Diesel 1981-1984, 240 Turbo 1981-1984, 260 1981-1982, 260 Diesel 1981, 760 1984.
Limited availability, please email.
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3523805  Overdrive Relay (the RED one)
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
For below models with MANUAL transmission
240 1985-1993, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1991, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1991, 760 1985-1986, 760 GLE 1988, 760 Turbo 1985-1990.
Currently Unavailable
$XX.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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3545803 Fuel Injection Relay
for 850 '93-'97, 850 GLT '95-'97, 850R '97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95.
Aftermarket Part (made by KAE).
Available spec order only
$44.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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9434225 Fuel PUMP Relay
Genuine Volvo relay, made by Stribel.
for 850 '93-'97, 850 Turbo '94-'96, 850 GLT '97, 850R '96-'97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95, C70 '98-'04, S70 &V70 '98-'00.

2 IN STOCK

$56.00 ea.
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1363449 Air Conditioning Relay
for 240/260 all '81-'93,
740/760 all '83 to '92,
780 all '86 to '91, Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel).
Available spec order only
$45.00 ea.
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9442468  Turn Signal Flasher Relay
Fits 240 DL, GL '85-93, 240 Turbo '81-84
260 '76-'82, 740 '85-92, 760 '84-'87,
760 GLE '88-'90, 760 Turbo '85-'90, 780 all,
850 '94, 940 '91-'95, 960 '92-'97.
Genuine Volvo part (made by Hella)
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

Available spec order only
$25.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
 After adding to cart, please choose SHIPPING below (Click here).


9442933 Cooling Fan Relay (2 speed),
for 740 92 and newer, 940/960 92 and newer, 850 all.
Also used for the air pump relay on a number of late model Volvos.
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel)
Old PN 3523872
OUT OF STOCK / Not Available
$65.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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240 Headlight Step Relay: Installation info - EARLY versus LATE types.
This is a Specific Problem & Solution for 1990-93 240
Volvo 240s remained about as consistent as any car could be for their 18 year production. One change in the headlamp relay has been discovered and this small article will explain the solution.

<<< The two relays in the photo on the left are both assigned Volvo part number 1307991 (same PN as the relay I offer above). There is a small difference, however. The one on the LEFT is the new part available now. It is the same relay used in 240s from 1975 until approximately 1989 (this is the EARLY Type). The one on the RIGHT is a little different and was used from 1990 to 1993 only. This later relay now appears to be NOT available anywhere. The good news is that either relay will work for your 240. But if you have a 1990 to1993, the solution is noted below.
.

The differences in detail: The early relay (on the left) has two extra pins (don't worry about these, they make NO difference). The main concern is that the later relay (on the right) is turned 180 degrees on it's mounting bracket. Why Volvo made this change is beyond my imagination. This 180 degree turn presents a potential problem when using a currently available relay (EARLY type) in a 1990 to 1993 240, because twisting the wire harnesses 1/2 turn so the two plugs can be plugged in will put an unwanted strain on the wires and connectors. Bad things happen to Volvo harnesses when this is done.

The solution for this is simple. The below instructions will show you how you can remove the connector terminal inserts from the socket plugs, turn the sockets 180 degrees, and replace the terminals.

Removing and Replacing Connector Pins:
CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR LARGER IMAGES
This first photo shows the relay removed and the two socket plugs sitting there waiting for action by a Volvonut.






Here we have a typical relay socket plug used in Volvos. This isn't a headlight socket, but it'll work for this demonstration.
Notice the metal teminals inside the holes? Not all the holes always have terminals. If you're curious which ones do, or you want to see the diagram for the headlight relay, scroll down.








You'll need a tool for this part... a long sharp pick will do. If it's not small enough on the tip, a little grinding action will fix it, like I did on this one. Even a stiff piece of wire can work for this step, such as a paperclip, but a pick like in the photo works best for me.



Now, pay attention to the openings at the top of the little rectangular holes. That wide spot is where you need to insert your pick. The idea is to insert the pick in about 3/8 inch or so and push down to flatten a hook or barb on the terminal that holds the terminal in the socket. In the next photos, the barb will be easy to see.

If your socket doesn't have a wider opening that you can see, just pay attention to the below pics to know which side of the terminal to insert the pick into.




In this photo you can see the terminal backing out of the hole.






Here's a good view of the hook or barb on the terminal. After you flatten the barb and pull the terminal out of the socket, the barb may need to be pushed back out so it engages when re-inserted into the socket. It needs to be sticking out like in this photo to work correctly.

Now turn your headlight sockets around 180 degrees and re-insert the pins, paying careful attention to inserting them in the correct order.... see the diagram below. And make sure the barb is on the correct side. As it gets inserted, you should hear a 'click' which tells you it has locked into place. Always make sure by giving the wire a little tug. And watch when you plug the sockets back in to see if any terminals back out.



Here is how the wire colors go for the headlight relay sockets.
This diagram is a view from the TOP (the surface that connects to the relay).


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If you choose to ship your order using less expensive First Class Mail, it will not have insurance or tracking. 
Please remember that if your order becomes LOST in the mail, I will not be responsible to send you another order for free.
It is VERY rare that a mail loss occurs with my orders (less than 1%), but the possibility exists. 

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Thanks,  Dave Barton
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