VOLVO RELAYS
and Related Parts You Need.
W O R L D W I D E   S H I P P I N G

     UPDATED: November 9, 2016           CONTACT          SHIPPING       VIEW CART
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FUEL INJECTION, FUEL PUMP, OVERDRIVE & OTHER RELAYS
and CRANK POSITION SENSORS

N A V I G A T E   I T E M S   O N   T H I S   P A G E
Click a link below.


Common Relay Failures
Testing Relays
Relay Location Diagrams
Repairing, Re-soldering Relays

Testing/Jumping Fuel Pump Relays For Sale Green Fuel Relay 3523639 White Fuel Relay 3523608

Green/White Fuel Relay 1362914 Blue/White Fuel relay 9130270 Radio Suppression Relay 1323592 Crank Position Sensor 3547847

Bulb Failure Sensors
Green Headlight Relay 3523200
240 Headlight Step Relay 1307991
Bosch "K" Relay 1324749

Picker Black Relay 1324749
Bosch Blue Relay 1324749
Tyco Black Relay 1324749
Tyco Brown Relay (006) 1235893

Bosch Fuel Pump Relay 1259926
Tyco Gray Relay (101) 1259926
5-Pole Relay Plugs
Relay Plug Terminals .250 inch

High Current Relays 70A and 80A
High Current Relay Plug
Relay Plug Terminals .375 inch
Overdrive Relays

Gray Fuel Relay 3545803
Pink Fuel Relay 9434225
AC Relay 1363449
Blinker Relay 9442468

Cooling Fan Relay 9442933
Shipping


Volvo 240s and 740s are well known for their reliability and for going many years and miles longer than most other cars.  But some of their CRITICAL RELAYS are known for failing sometime after around 10 to 20 years of service.  I don't really think these relays were built poorly.  Instead I think it might be the cars are so well built, they simply outlast some of their electronic components. 
So, at least for Volvos, it appears there are some relays that can be considered "wear items."

If one of these critical relays fails away from home, it could be costly (high towing expenses, wild mechanic's diagnoses, etc.). 
Even though some of these relays are VERY common failures and SHOULD be widely known by anyone who works on these cars professionally, I have seen MANY mechanics insist a Volvo needs a new fuel pump, fuel injection computer, air mass meter and other very expensive parts, when in the end it was discovered it was ONLY A SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE $50 RELAY, which you can plug in yourself. 

Should You Carry a Spare Fuel Pump Relay?:
  I have experienced an inconvenient fuel pump relay failure in FIVE of my Volvos over the years (240s and 740s).  After one particularly stupid $200 tow bill,  I made it a point to replace the original Fuel Pump Relays in my older Volvos with NEW ones, and then I carry a good used one as a spare in my glovebox, just in case.  If you have older or original relays (10 years and up) in your Volvos, or if you are experiencing intermittent or temperature related or fuel related stalls or mysterious electrical issues, it might be time for a relay replacement before it leaves you stranded. 

More discussion about dealing with a Fuel Pump Relay Failure CLICK HERE

What are the Most Common Relay Type Failures?
I had a 1990 740 Turbo a number of years ago.  When it was close to 10 years old, it began to develop intermittent stalling while driving, but it would eventually start back up after a few minutes of rest. 
After it happened to my wife twice, she refused to drive the car!  I could not re-create it when searching or testing. 

I knew it had to be a critical relay or crank sensor, and THIS CAR HAS TWO RELAYS and a CRANK SENSOR that are commonly prone to failure.  So I replaced the following ALL AT ONCE:
Fuel Pump Relay (3523608) CLICK HERE,
Radio Noise Suppression Relay (1323592) CLICK HERE,
and Crank Position Sensor (3547847) CLICK HERE.

Sure enough, at least one of those was the problem and the car was good after that, plus I saved money from having my local Volvo dealer play with the car for hours.  

The above three failure items relates to 1990 and later 700 and 900 series Volvos. 
If you own an '89 or newer 240, the your prime failure items will be:
Fuel Pump Relay (3523608) CLICK HERE,
and Crank Position Sensor (3547847) CLICK HERE.

A 240 does not use a Radio Noise Suppression Relay for the Fuel Injection.

Volvo 240 Main Headlight Relay (1986-93 only)
Headlight relay failure info HERE.

Because these failures are so common in Volvos, I now keep all of the above items in stock below just in case you need it.

Here's a Brickboard post regarding a couple of Radio Suppression Relay replacements....
"I have had two cars which had a problem with this relay. It is black, usually on the passenger side by the anti-freeze expansion tank. The part number is 1323592-1.  My 740 had poor acceleration and hard cold weather starting here in Minnesota. The problem did not change with a replacement engine out of a 1993 940 (non-turbo). Changing this relay made a huge difference in both acceleration and cold weather starting. The reason I put in another engine is because the old engine froze with a broken intake valve. I have always wondered whether the relay, which supplies a ground to the fuel injection, could have had high resistance contacts leading to the injectors not injecting a rich enough mixture so the engine ran lean?  The second case of this relay going bad was fixed two nights ago. My 1995 940 (non-turbo) with 69K miles had poor acceleration and would surge slightly while running steady.  I thought the problem could be related to the years in storage even though I started it periodically and had a full tank of gas with stabilizer.  I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the IAC valve and throttle body, checked fuel pressure and volume, and I could not find anything wrong. Then I changed this relay and again, it was like a different car."

Here are some emails I received about relay success stories...
"I purchased a RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION RELAY for my 87 740 Turbo wagon a couple of months ago, and thought I'd drop you a note to tell you that the car has been running great, I've been driving it every day for about the last month, with NO STARTING ISSUES!!!  It was having intermittent starting issues, would be fine for a few days, then leave me stranded. I had replaced both fuel pumps and the fuel injection relay. It would start with a shot of starting fluid, then be okay for a few more days. I would have never thought that a radio noise relay would have an effect on my fuel injectors, but thanks to your site and all the information on it, I was steered in the right direction. You saved me from scrapping out a car that i truly enjoy to drive."  C.W.

"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!"  M.L.

"Hi Dave. Well probably no surprise to you....the car is working fine now after three months of pulling my hair out, 2 tows and 8 trips to the mechanic.  You're right...too few know of this fix... I'm mechanically inclined, yet can't believe I solved this one with your help with relays from Hungary... of all places...amazing. The car currently has 145K and is a honey.  Your the best."  B.L., Martha's Vineyard, MA

"Hey Dave, Thank you so much. Your hypothesis that failing relays causing intermittent problems was spot on!  I replaced the Overdrive Relay and it instantly fixed my phantom shifting/not shifting overdrive problems also, the car seems to auto shift at the appropriate times and RPM's more precisely, the way I remember it did.  Then I replaced the Fuel Injection Relay and the intermittent stalls have disappeared - a major boost of confidence before Holiday travels!  Holding off on the Noise Suppression Relay and Crank sensor for now because it's running so well!  I did a lot of web crawling before I found your site and can confirm there are lots of 740 owners with the same issues - most seem to spend a bunch on Fuel Pumps and Mass Air Sensors and just about everything else, often without success.  I'd encourage you to post on the various boards out there regarding Intermittent Stalling and Overdrive issues... $80 for the two relays I installed in a couple of minutes and a now in a world of Volvo goodness!"  E.S., Blue Lake, CA

"I had a great outcome with the C70 – I called my mechanic and asked him if he could replace the Fuel Pump Relay in the car.  He said it could be a number of things, but I told him I wanted to start with that first since it was a cheaper resolution and after researching it on your site, I felt pretty sure that was the problem.  Before, the car did the same thing when he tested it in the late day / HOT sun after sitting most of the day.  Car started up and died after a minute as if it were out of gas. Then he changed the relay and I’m back up and running!!   He charged me for his time and the relay – out the door for $100.  I think he should have paid me for finding the problem out for him.  (ha ha).  Thanks again. Even though it was a C70 and not the other model Volvos – the answer was the same.  I'll keep one of those in the glove compartment for sure!  Your site helped a ton!!  M.G.

TESTING VOLVO RELAYS
I have received a lot of emails over the years asking how to test a bad or intermittent relay. Since I'm only an "amateur Volvo tech," the best test I know for such a relay is swapping it with another (try a used one if you have one). 
As for the Crank Position Sensor
(240: '89-'93, 740: '89-'92, 940: all 4-cylinder models), I hear of them going out often enough in later 240/740/900 models that I would consider changing it if you suspect it's original.  It will be MUCH HARDER TO CHANGE if it fails on some back-country road.  The Crank Position Sensor may also be known as an Engine Speed Sensor or Crank Impulse Sender.  Here's an excellent discussion thread and "how to" on replacing this sensor: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164. Here's a discussion on testing a Crank Position Sensor: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316065.               
Here is a good Brickboard post discussing these sensors:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=807903

Here is some excellent info on Volvo fuel pump relays:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm#Hot_Fuel_Pump_Relay

  Here are some diagrams I've collected showing RELAY LOCATIONS for Volvo 240, 700 and 900 models.

REPAIRING VOLVO RELAYS
You will find a fair amount of information on the internet about this subject if you search, so I will be brief and offer some basics.  Relays made for Volvos are mass-produced and the soldering on the circuit boards is not the best on some of them.  After many years of use, lots of heat cycles, etc, these relays will often become intermittent or fail.  Most of these failures can be traced to a solder joint or two (or three) that has become cracked.  With very little solder talent, you can often repair these relays and if done properly, they can last longer than a new one.  If you're going to try this, a light-duty (25A) soldering iron will work fine.  And it is recommended to use rosin core solder for any electrical work. 

<<< (Click on any photo to enlarge) Here we have a typical Volvo transmission overdrive relay. It's a simple procedure to open it.  Use a pick or small screwdriver to gently pry the places shown so you can remove the cover.  If you crack the cover, it's not a big deal, but just try to be gentle. 
<<< Here we can see the back of the circuit board.  Often a solder joint will crack where the relay coil is mounted. On this relay the most common locations where cracks develop are shown by the arrows.  If cracked, you should be able to see the faint crack line going around the pin that sticks out from the solder. In really bad cases you'll find that the coil has actually broken loose from the board. If you pick up a relay and shake it and can hear a rattle, look for a loose coil


<<< If you're curious what the coil looks like, on this relay at the left it's that brass square device in the left side of the photo.  Sometimes simply re-flowing the solder in the cracked places will make the joints solid again, but if you are able, I strongly recommend adding some solder material to these locations to make the joint thicker and stronger.  They crack because they're thin. Making them thicker will help keep that from happening again.

Here is a good article on this subject from the Volvo Club UK: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.html#RepairingandResolderingRelays

COULD IT BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A RELAY?
CLEAN YOUR CORRODED CONNECTIONS AND GROUNDS
Relays usually stop working for good when they go bad. Some can be intermittant, but most are not. Most failures are from cracked solder joints on the circuit board. I have more detail about that above.  Occasionally a cracked joint can become intermittent, but usually not. 
In many cases of electrical failure of old Volvos the relay is not the problem.  It often a bad electrical connection.  Sometimes it can be an overheated connector at a relay or just a corroded connection or ground in the dash or under the hood that took many years to become bad enough to stop the car.  It happens many times faster if the car has been living outdoors for years in the weather.  I have seen many techs and owners over many years spend enormous amounts of money swapping parts when the cure was simply cleaning electrical connections and grounds. That’s what I recommend if you have an old Volvo and have never done so.  Find every connection and ground you can in the dash and under the hood, loosen them and clean them. Then make sure they are snugged tight.  

BENEFITS OF USING ANTI-CORROSIVE PASTE
If I have not yet fully stressed the importance of clean and tight connections, I will do it again. If we can just just keep our connections clean and tight, almost all of the electrical issues would be history forever.  That would be nice, right?
The below information was contributed by Ron Kwas and should come in very handy:
Anit-Corrosive Zinc Paste (a generic name for zinc dust contained in grease) was originally developed for and required by electrical codes for use on alumunum to copper electrical connections (or other dissimilar metal connections).  No, it's not anything like Dielectric Grease, which is often incorrectly recommended. Dielectric Grease can buy some protection in the form of encapsulation from moisture, but it also carries with it the potential disadvantage of locking in moisture or corrosion which may have already started.  Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (or ACZP) is the next evolution of the encapsulation principle, because zinc (lowest on the Galvanic nobility chart) neutralizes corrosion on a micro-scale to truly protect connections on a long-term basis using that encapsulation, INCLUDING an added protection from corrosion which may want to start under there.  Ron has used and recommended Penetrox A (by Burndy) for years and he has never looked back.  He has studied the effects and downsides of other manufacturer's versions and has found some to be unsuitable.  He is a huge advocate of treating ALL electrical connections on our cars (except of course High Voltage Ignition connections) with a suitable version of this material.  You can learn a lot more about this stuff at Ron's page here:  http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm 


Main LH Fuse
On 1983 to 1990 240 non-turbo models, the LH fuel injection system uses a 25 amp main fuse located under your hood on the left side fender.  It is not in any type of sealed fuse holder, so the elements can cause corrosion to invade the connector over the years.  Often pulling out and re-inserting the fuse will cure this issue temporarily.  For a long-term fix, clean the contacts with a wire brush, or even better, replace that fuse holder with a water-tight one, like the one found in this page:  Volvo Harness Parts Page
Here's a great page with more useful info about this fuse:  http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html

In case of a no start, what about a Volvo fuel pump?
 
The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails (Bosch simply makes great in-line fuel pumps)

A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... g
ive it a quick tap with a wrench or screwdriver.  For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is obviously going to the pump).  If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come back to life and it might stay running until you shut it off again.  This trick can sometimes get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency and then you can replace the pump later.  If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this trick will NOT work because there will be no power going to your pump.  If you think there is no power, you might try the below suggestions on bypassing the fuel pump relay or "jumping" the pump to get power going to it again.

TESTING/JUMPING YOUR 240 FUEL PUMP
How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit from your Volvo 240 fuse panel:
The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's side kick panel on a left hand drive 240).
You can make a jumper from a piece of wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results (see photo)
For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7.
For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit  #4 to #6.


If the main fuel pump under your car does NOT begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming),  you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is fairly common under an old 240 near the pump).  This test of course assumes your battery is good.
If one of the fuses at those circuits blows during this test, the pump circuit power wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.
More detailed info can be found at http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm.


GETTING YOUR 240 HOME WITH A
FUEL PUMP RELAY FAILURE

If you find that the above jump test makes your fuel pump run and you don't have a spare relay with you (or if your spare doesn't work either), here's a trick that will get you home.

The simple trick of course is to jeep the jump wire (or paper clip) in place while driving.  If you can manage to do that, your pump will run continuously and you can drive the car without any adverse affect. This won't hurt anything it as long as you have fuel in the tank.  Keep in mind that when you turn off the car, your pump will continue running until you disconnect the jumper. 

JUMPING A MAIN PUMP FROM THE 240 RELAY PLUG
Trying to securely mount a jumper wire (or paperclip) to the fuse panel so it won't fall off can be difficult. There is another way that I find much better.  Find your fuel pump relay and unplug it.  Look at the plug and the wire colors. There will be a RED wire going into one of the terminal inserts.  That is the power from the battery.  Also find the YELLOW/RED wire(s) (usually two of them going into ONE terminal).  These wires go to the fuel pumps.  Jumping or connecting the RED WIRE to the YELLOW/RED WIRE in this plug will be the same as jumping the two fuses shown above.  And it will be much easier to stick a paperclip (or other device) into the plug slots without them falling out.

<<< Here's a simple tool you can make yourself and throw in your glove box. I have one in mine always.  It's made with two easy to find .250 inch (6.3 mm) MALE crimp terminals and a piece of wire (14 gauge or larger preferred, but not required). These male terminals will plug right into the relay plug slots after the relay is unplugged. It might be a long while before you use it, so put a tag on there to remind yourself that it should jump the RED to the YELLOW/RED wire to provide power to the pump. 


  If you are experiencing any mysterious electrical issues, here is a really good discussion thread on diagnosing a problematic late model 240 fuel pump circuit that was eventually solved: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=4752224#post4752224


JUMPING A MAIN PUMP FROM THE 740 RELAY PLUG
<<< The 740 fuel pump relay (E in image to left) is in a large multi-relay panel behind the ash tray in the center dash console.  You may also perform a jumper bypass on this relay plug using the same jumper wire as shown above.  You may need to remove the relay (J) between you and the fuel pump relay to see better. 
If you need to see the full relay diagram this image came from, it's here: http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf



JUMPING A MAIN PUMP FROM THE 940 RELAY PLUG
<<< The 1994-95 940 fuel pump relay (M in image to left, BLUE relay) is in a large multi-relay panel behind the ash tray in the center dash console.  You may also perform a jumper bypass on this relay plug using the same jumper wire as shown above.   
If you need to see the full relay diagram this image came from, it's here: http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/1994-940relaylocations.pdf



IN-TANK PUMP (PRE-PUMP) ISSUES
Applies to all 240/260 and many 700 models

This is a VERY common problem in Volvos reaching the age of 15 years and older.  Often the actual in-tank pump is NOT broken, but the SHORT RUBBER FUEL HOSE that goes from the pre-pump to the metal feed tube inside the tank decomposes and falls apart after years of being submerged in fuel.  When this hose ruptures, the in-tank pump can no longer push fuel out to the main pump. The main pump under the car will try to make up the difference, but it usually can't keep up, especially when your tank is half full or less, when your fuel level is at or below that hose rupture.

A GOOD TEST:
If the symptoms go away after filling the tank up, then this is probably your problem. Opening the top of the tank (in the trunk or cargo area), removing the gauge sender and pump assembly and replacing that small hose is the cure.  A simple piece of 5/16 inch fuel injection hose about 3 inches long usually works fine.  And replace those cheesy original hose clamps with nice new ones while you're at it.  You might be shocked to find out how many people have been advised by service technicians that they need new fuel pumps when only a short piece of fuel injection hose was needed.

More detailed info about getting into your tank can be found at  http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm.



K, 006, 101

AVAILABLE VOLVO RELAYS BELOW
Many of these parts below are available here if you need one.  Some are requested fairly often, so I keep them in stock. 
Email me if you have a question.
CONTACT

3523639 Fuel Injection Relay (Fuel Pump Relay) Geniune Volvo Relay made by Stribel.
Other matching part numbers: 1235337, 1324022, 1348600.
GREEN (K-Jetronic, mechanical fuel injection).

Fits 240 DL 1978-82 with K-Jetronic,
240 Turbo 1981-85 all,
260 1978-82,
760 (non-turbo, V6 only) 1983-86.

   OUT OF STOCK
  $XX.00 ea.
                
    
Order Quantity:
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FUEL PUMP RELAY MODS CLICK HERE


3523639A Fuel Injection Relay (Fuel Pump Relay)
Other matching part numbers: 1235337, 1324022, 1348600.
GREEN (K-Jetronic, mechanical fuel injection), Aftermarket relay made by Uroparts.

Fits 240 DL 1978-82 with K-Jetronic,
240 Turbo 1981-85 all,
260 1978-82,
760 (non-turbo, V6 only) 1983-86.




   IN STOCK
  $32.00 ea.
                
    
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FUEL PUMP RELAY MODS CLICK HERE


3523608 Fuel Pump/Injection Relay. New Relay, GENUINE Volvo (made by STRIBEL).
Same as previous Volvo PN 1347603.
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay or Main Fuel System Relay
WHITE in color.
Fits 240 DL/GL 85-93 all (LH-Jetronic 2.2 and 2.4).
740 85-92 all turbo and non-turbo. 
760 87 6-cyl. (See GREEN relay 1362914 below for  1988-89 760 6-cyl.)
780 87-91 all (4 cyl turbo and 6 cyl).
940 non-turbo 91-93. (See BLUE relay below for 1994-95 940 non-turbo).
940 Turbo 91-95. (See GREEN relay below for 1991-93 940 SE and 1991-93 960 6-cyl).

Locations of
most 700-900 relays:
http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf


>>WARNING: Some 760 and 900 models take the green relay or blue relay below.<<


IN STOCK

Your price: $46.00 ea.

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1362914 Fuel Injection Relay.  Genuine Volvo part made by Stribel.
GREEN with White base.
760 Turbo 1988-90 (4 cyl).
760 1988-90 (6 cyl).
960 (6 cyl)
940SE (4 cyl) 1991-93.
Locations of most 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
NOTE: If you have a '94 or later 940/960 and this relay is not present (and also the white relay above is not found), then the below BLUE 9130270 relay may be your fuel pump relay.

ONE IN STOCK
Price: $44.00

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9130270 Fuel Pump Relay.  Also PN's 9128124, 9162250, and latest is 9494787.
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
Usually BLUE with a white base.
Fits some 1994-95 940 non-turbo 4-cylinder.
Some 1994 960 6-cylinder.

Locations of most 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf
This relay may not be found in the usual fuel pump relay location shown by the Relay Diagrams I have listed above. Instead, it will usually be found in the front row, second from the right, in the fuse/relay board. If there is a second identical one to the right of it, that should be the high beam relay.
This relay is also designated as a Heater/Fog Light relay for 1993 and later 850 models.


OUT OF STOCK/NLA through my sources.
However Volvo PN 1259926 listed below may be used instead and will work perfectly: CLICK HERE.



1323592 Noise Suppression Relay (AKA: Radio Suppression Relay or "RSR"). 
Genuine Volvo part made by Stribel
.
This relay is found under your hood.  Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some Volvos, and some 700/900 models will have TWO under the hood (one for noise suppression and one for cooling fan).
Used in the following Volvos:
1988-93 240, 244, 245 (used as AC Cooling Fan Relay if the car has a front AC condenser fan)
Most 1987-92 740, 760, 780. Used as Noise Suppression Relay. Also another one used as an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two such relays are present.
1991-95 940 and 940 Turbo. 
Used as Noise Suppression Relay. Also another one used as an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two such relays are present.

1993-97 850 (used as Fog Light Relay)

The failure of this relay when used as a Noise Suppression Relay will cause a No-Start or Intermittent Start condition.
For 700/900 models with a non-turbo engine, this relay is mounted under the hood, often at the right shock tower at or or near the coolant reservoir.  For 700/900 models with B230FT (turbo) engines this relay is often mounted near the left shock tower.
On some models you will find TWO of these.  In these cases one will function as a Noise Suppression Relay and the other an Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay.  They are interchangable and can be swapped during an emergency if the Noise Suppression Relay fails.  If the Noise Suppression Relay starts going bad, you may get intermittent starting problems (and/or intermittant running) since the electrical pulse to the fuel injectors will be interrupted. If the engine turns over OK, but it won't fire, then this could be the problem.  Often as these cars age, the failure point will be the 4-pole connector plug (and insert terminals) instead of the relay. 
<<< Locations of Noise Suppression Relay under 700/900 hood.






 


<<< In an attempt to remove some of the mystery of this relay, I created the diagram to the left.  If you think this relay may have failed in your car, you may test  by temporarily bridging pins 87(3) and 30(4) on the connector plug. This will provide power to your fuel injectors as if the relay was functioning normally and can get things running in an emergency.
Locations of other interior 700-900 relays (pdf) Click this: http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

  IN STOCK
Your Price: $49.00 ea. (Genuine Volvo part made by Stribel)

Order Quantity:

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choose SHIPPING below (Click Here).


<<< Some failures for the above relay can be related to a failed connector. 
This connector housing is now available in my Volvo Harness Parts Page.


1323592A Noise Suppression Relay (AKA: Radio Suppression Relay or "RSR").  Aftermarket part made in Germany by Kaehler. This relay is found under your hood.  Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some Volvos, and some 700/900 models have TWO under the hood (one for noise suppression and one for cooling fan).
Used in the following Volvos:
1988-93 240, 244, 245 (used as AC Cooling Fan Relay if the car has a front AC condenser fan)
1988-92 740, 760, 780 (used as Noise Suppression Relay and an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two relays are present)
1991-95 940 and 940 Turbo (
used as Noise Suppression Relay and AC Cooling Fan Relay if two relays are present)
1993-97 850 (used as Fog Light Relay)

The failure of this relay when used as a Noise Suppression Relay will cause a No-Start or Intermittent Start condition.
For 700/900 models with a non-turbo engine, this relay is mounted under the hood, often at the right shock tower at or or near the coolant reservoir.  For 700/900 models with B230FT (turbo) engines this relay is often mounted near the left shock tower.
On some models you will find TWO of these.  In these cases one will function as a Noise Suppression Relay and the other a Cooling Fan Relay.  They are interchangable and can be swapped during an emergency if one relay fails.  If the Noise Suppression Relay starts going bad, you may get intermittent starting problems (and/or intermittant running) since the electrical pulse to the fuel injectors will be interrupted. If the engine turns over OK, but it won't fire, then this could be the problem. 
<<< In an attempt to remove some of the mystery of this relay, I created the diagram to the left.  If you think this relay may have failed in your car, you may test  by temporarily bridging pins 87(3) and 30(4) on the connector plug. This will provide power to your fuel injectors as if the relay was functioning normally and can get things running in an emergency.
Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf) Click this: http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

  IN STOCK
Your Price: $29.00 ea. (Aftermarket part made in Germany by Kaehler)

Order Quantity:

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<<< Some failures for the above relay can be related to a failed connector. 
This connector housing is now available in my Volvo Harness Parts Page.


3547847   Crank Position Sensor.  Original Volvo Part made by Bougicord.
Also known as: Crank Impulse Sender, Crank Speed Sensor, Engine Speed Sensor, RPM Sensor.

For 240 1989-93,
700 non-turbo 1989-92,

700 Turbo 1990-92, 900 ALL w/4cylinder.
<<< Located near top of transmission bell housing on the engine block behind the cylinder head. Replacing a crank position sensor yourself can be intimidating for those who have never tried it. 


Here's an excellent discussion thread and "how to" on this job: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164

Here's a discussion on testing a Crank Position Sensor:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316065.       
        
              


More information about this sensor: www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSensors.html#Crank_Postition_Sensor

IN STOCK
               

  $51.00 ea.

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3547847A   Crank Position Sensor.  Aftermarket part.
Same as above, except for the price.
Also known as: Crank Impulse Sender, Crank Speed Sensor, Engine Speed Sensor, RPM Sensor.
For 240 1989-93,
700 non-turbo 1989-92,

700 Turbo 1990-92, 900 ALL w/4cylinder.
<<< Located near top of transmission bell housing behind cylinder head. Replacing a crank position sensor yourself can be intimidating for those who have never tried it. 


Here's an excellent discussion thread and "how to" on this job: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164
Here's a discussion on testing a Crank Position Sensor:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316065.       
  
        
 
More information about this sensor: www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSensors.html#Crank_Postition_Sensor


IN STOCK (limited availability)
               

  $29.00 ea.
Order Quantity:

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FAILURE OF VOLVO BULB FAILURE SENSORS
The Bulb Failure Sensor (or Relay) is a device found in the 1978 and newer 240, 700, 900 that alerts the driver of a failed low-beam headlamp, parking lamp, tail lamp or brake lamp by sensing the balance of current draw between the left and right side lighting circuits.   When that dash light comes on, it means the sensor recognizes that one side is drawing more current that the other.  This usually means there is a bulb out, but occasionally, it can be triggered by incorrect or mismatched bulbs, or even sometimes when one side has a newer bulb than the other.
Variations of this sensor:
Yellow case, PN 1362278 (1978-85 240 and 740 through 1985)
Red case
(pictured at left), PN 1362370, which fits the 1986-93 240, 1986 and later 740, 780, and 1991-94 940
Yellow Square case, PN 3545704, for 1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960
Blue Square case, PN 9128814, also fitting
1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960.

The failure of these relays is becoming more frequent in older Volvos. 
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: The symptoms of failure can be headlights or tail lights (or sometimes just one whole side) that will not work even after verifying that fuses, switches, headlight relays and wiring are all in good order. 
 
BYPASSING AND ELIMINATING THIS SENSOR IS POSSIBLE
Go to my 240 Modifications Page at http://www.davebarton.com/volvo240mods.html

1362278 Bulb Failure Sensor (AKA: Bulb Failure Relay). 
Aftermarket part made in Germany by Kaehler.
Fits 1978-85 240/260.
1983-85 740/760.

$39.00 ea.   IN STOCK

Order Quantity PN 1362278A:
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 3523200 Headlight Relay
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel)
for 1993-97 850, 1995-98 960, S90 or V90, 1998 S70/V70 (w/o fog lights)


ONE IN STOCK
$60.00 ea.
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VOLVO 240 HEADLIGHT RELAY INFORMATION
1.  High/Low Beam Step Relay, all year 240s, Volvo PN 1307991. This is the best known headlight relay, because it sits under the hood in plain sight. There are two versions of this relay. Click here to see this info.  This relay controls the switching (or stepping) between low and high beams. It's controlled by the flasher stalk on your steering column. Some have been known to fail when as new as 10 years old and some last well past 30 years without problems.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: You may suspect it has failed if you can no longer switch between low and high beams (you can hear the loud audible 'click' if it's working).
Also, if your headlights stay OFF when in low or high beam mode (so that only low beams work or only high beams work), then it is most likely this relay.  But when checking, look at the two connector plugs at the bottom. If one looks melted, then there's a poor power connection causing excessive heat and a poor connection.  This is usually caused by corrosion, so cleaning these contacts is a good idea.   


Unlocking the Mysteries of the 240 Headlight Step Relay
These relays are rather special in that they have a latching feature.  A latching feature is where you can click and release a momentary button or switch and the relay will lock (latch) in an on or off position. For this Volvo relay, one click latches it "ON" and another click latches it "OFF."  I have created the diagram PDF at the left for anyone who wants to better understand how these work.
 I have also added a test procedure if you think you have a broken one.








               Later 240s ('86-'93 only) are equipped with a SECOND headlight relay (BELOW).
Earlier 240s have only the one step relay above.


2. Main Headlight Relay,
This relay exists in the 1986-93 240 only, using Volvo PN 1324749 (or 1235013) (available below), or Bosch PN 0332015001,
0332015006, 0332015012.  Beginning in 1986, Volvo added this "main headlight relay" to the 240. Prior to this the 240 used only the dash switch to turn on the headlights and then the common high/low step relay under the hood to turn on high beams. This "main" relay is a mystery to many 240 owners, because it's tucked away out of sight under the dash.  This relay fails less often than the above step relay.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: Your headlights may not come on at all when the dash switch is turned, but your high beams will flash normally when the flasher stalk is pulled back. Or the headlights might turn off on their own after a short time with the switch on. The headlights may come back on after switching them off, then on again. Or you might find that you need to wait a while and try the switch again (after things "cool off").  All of this assumes you have a good battery and good fuses.


Why did Volvo add this relay?:  Volvo added the "main headlight relay" to the 240 to take the heavy current load away from the dash switch, so the heat melt damage typically found in early switches would stop happening.  It solved the problem, but then heat melt damage would sometimes begin to occur in the relay plug.  The reason for this melting is due to slow corrosion of the power contact point in the plug. This corrosion will cause resistance, which generates more heat. The cycle continues until things begin to melt like the photo at left.  Not all main relay plugs have this happen and most that do havedamage do not look close to this bad. This condition eventually damages the power connection to the point the relay loses power and fails to operate.  Often making repairs are as simple as cleaning the terminals and relay posts or replacing the bad terminal inside the plug. If the plug becomes melted like this one, a new one is available cheap (these items can be found HERE).

WHERE TO FIND THIS RELAY IN YOUR 240:
In the '86-'87 240, it should be found behind the clutch or brake pedal area (see relay location diagrams here). For the '88 to '93 240 (exact year of this change is not certain), it will be behind the center dash area, just below the top accessory gauge locations (or below your radio if yours is up high in the dash). 
See relay location diagrams here.
<<< Here is a look at the main headlight relay in the center dash location in a late 240. 
It is next to the power door locking relays, which are to the right.
This photo was taken with the entire dash removed. You should be able to get to it by removing the center air vents.



1307991 Headlight Relay, 240 Headlight High/Low Beam "Step" Relay
Genuine Volvo Part

for 1978-93 240.

In Stock
$55.00 ea.
Order Quantity:
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**CLICK HERE for Installation info regarding EARLY versus LATE (1990-93) 240**

More information about how these relays work can be found above.




No Longer Available, however compatible replacements are below.
Volvo PN 1324749 'K' Relay (also known as Volvo PN 1235893 and Bosch PN 0-332-015-006)
Bosch PN 0332-015-006  (superceded from 0-332-204-126). A proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001,
0-332-015-012.
Special Type: Rated 15A x 2 poles (dual isolated contacts).
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
2.
Main Headlight relay for 240 1986-93 only (earlier 240 did not use one). In dash or behind brake pedal. (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda relay
for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93: Seat Heater.

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is a Dual N.O. Contact SPST type (Dual Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw).  It has Isolated Outputs.  You will see a diagram on the relay similar to this one here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are isolated from each other.

This relay may be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may be used in place of this relay only if the duel isolated contacts are not required.
Email me with questions about these relays.

No Longer Available, however compatible replacements are below. 


Volvo PN 1324749 (Bosch PN 0-332-015-006)
NEW PICKER black Relay.
Perfect replacement for above Bosch 'K' Relay in all applications.

Bosch PN 0332-015-006  (superceded from 0-332-204-126). A proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001,
0-332-015-012. Also compatible as direct replacement for the Ferrari K or "big K" relay.
Special Type: Rated 25A x 2 poles (dual isolated contacts). Higher amp rating than original Volvo 'K' relay, which was rated at 15A x 2.
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
2.
Main Headlight relay for 240 1986-93 only (earlier 240 did not use one). In dash or behind brake pedal. (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda relay
for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93: Seat Heater

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is a Dual Contact SPST type (Dual Contact, Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw). It is identical to the original Bosch "K" relay, except this one has more capacity.  It has Dual Isolated Outputs, which is required in some Volvo (and Ferrari) circuits.  You will see a diagram on the relay similar to this one here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b (power outputs) are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are non-powered and isolated from each other.

This relay may be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may NOT be used in place of this relay unless the dual isolated contacts are not required.
Email me with questions about these relays.


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Volvo PN 1324749 (Bosch PN 0-332-015-006)
NEW BOSCH blue Relay. Compatible replacement for above 'K' Relay.
Bosch PN 0332-015-006  (superceded from 0-332-204-126). A proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001,
0-332-015-012.  Also compatible as direct replacement for the Ferrari K or "big K" relay.
Special Type: Rated 15A x 2 poles (dual isolated contacts) (same as metal "K" relay above).
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
2.
Main Headlight relay for 240 1986-93 only (earlier 240 did not use one). In dash or behind brake pedal. (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda relay
for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93: Seat Heater

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf


This relay is a Dual Contact SPST type (Dual Contact, Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw).  It is identical to the original Bosch "K" relay, except this one has more capacity.  It has Dual Isolated Outputs, which is required in some Volvo circuits.  You will see a diagram on the relay similar to this one here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b (power outputs) are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are non-powered and isolated from each other.

This relay may be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may NOT be used in place of this relay unless the dual isolated contacts are not required.
Email me with questions about these relays.


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Volvo PN 1324749 (Bosch PN 0-332-015-006)
NEW TYCO black Relay. Compatible replacement for above 'K' Relay.
Bosch PN 0332-015-006  (superceded from 0-332-204-126). A proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001,
0-332-015-012.  Also compatible as direct replacement for the Ferrari K or "big K" relay.
Special Type: Rated 25A x 2 poles (dual isolated contacts) (higher rating than original Volvo 'K' relay, which was rated at 15A x 2).
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
2.
Main Headlight relay for 240 1986-93 only (earlier 240 did not use one). In dash or behind brake pedal. (1 is used).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda relay
for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
4. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93: Seat Heater

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is a Dual Contact SPST type (Dual Contact, Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw). It is identical to the original Bosch "K" relay, except this one has more capacity.  It has Dual Isolated Outputs, which is required in some Volvo circuits.  You will see a diagram on the relay similar to this one here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b (power outputs) are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are non-powered and isolated from each other.

This relay may be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may NOT be used in place of this relay unless the dual isolated contacts are not required.
Email me with questions about these relays.


OUT OF STOCK. Other relays here ending in 006 are compatible.
 $22.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $18.00 ea.

 

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Volvo PN 1235893 (006 Tyco brown relay)
NEW TYCO Compatible replacement for common Bosch SPST.

Made by Tyco (who bought Bosch's relay division).
Proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235893, 1259925 (Bosch 0-332-019-151).
Other part numbers: 0-332-014-213.
Rated 40A for 100,000 cycles, 30A for 250,000 cycles.
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Oxygen Sensor relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81.
2. Power window relay, 240 1978-93, 260 1978-81.
3. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93: Seat Heater

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf




This relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram on it similar to this one here. 
An SPST relay will usually have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87b (or sometimes just 87). 
With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are common and both give power at the same time.

Email me with questions about these relays.



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Volvo PN 1259926 (0332-209-151 Bosch)
The metal case relay on the left is No Longer Available
Bosch
PN 0332-209-151, same as PN 0332-204-101, 0332-204-126. Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1259926, 1324492, 1308806, 1504952 (Bosch 0332-209-158, 0332-204-102 and 0332-204-110) fuel injection and heater fan relay. Original Bosch relay. 
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 
2. Central Locking, Power Door Lock relay for 240/260 all years (2 used).
3. Central Locking, Power Door Lock relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780
(2 used).
4.
Fuel Injection relay for early 240/260 (1975-77).
5. Lamda, ignition and oil level relay for some 240/260.
6. Seat heater relay for 700 all years.
7. Fuel Injection relay for 1994-95 940 non-turbo, substitute for PN 9494787.
8. Fuel Injection Relay for 1994 960 6 cyl, substiture for PN 9494787.
9. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series.

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a.  This is known as a "Changeover" Relay.  With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF".  Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.
OUT OF STOCK (see below Tyco GRAY relay for correct replacement)


Volvo PN 1259926 (101 Tyco gray relay)
NEW TYCO Compatible replacement for above Bosch metal or plastic case SPDT relay.
Made by Tyco (who bought Bosch's relay division), same as Bosch PN 0332-204-101, 0332-204-126, 0332-209-151
Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1215613, 1259926, 1324492, 1308806, 1504952 (Bosch 0332-209-158, 0332-204-102 and 0332-204-110) fuel injection and heater fan relay.
Rated 40A for 100,000 cycles, 30A for 250,000 cycles.
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo.
1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 
2. Central locking relay for 240/260 all years (2 used).
3. Central locking relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780
(2 used).
4.
Fuel Injection relay for early 240/260 (1975-77).
5. Fog light relay for 242 GT 1215613 (1977-81).
6. Lambda, ignition and oil level relay for some 240/260.
7. Seat heater relay for 700 all years.
8. Fuel Injection relay for 1994-95 940 non-turbo, substitute for PN 9494787.
9. Fuel Injection Relay for 1994 960 6 cyl
, substitute for PN 9494787.
10. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series.

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

This relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a.  This is known as a "Changeover" Relay.  With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF".  Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.
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5-Pole Standard RELAY PLUG SOCKET (Suitable for all above 5-pole relays).
Click here for tips on removing wire connector inserts from these sockets.

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5-Pole Interlocking RELAY PLUG SOCKET (Suitable for all above 5-pole relays).
Click here for tips on removing wire connector inserts from these sockets.

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.




.250 inch (6.3 mm) locking crimp terminals for above relay socket.
Two wire sizes available:
SMALL: for 14-18 gauge (or smaller) wire.
$0.40 each
IN STOCK



LARGE: for 10-12 gauge wire
$0.50 each.
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HIGH CURRENT RELAYS and RELAY SOCKETS
PICKER High Current 80 Amp 5-pole Relay
This is a special SPDT Changeover relay (5 poles) that you may use for any HIGH CURRENT 12V device, such as heavy duty cooling fans (Ford Taurus, Lincoln Mark VIII, etc).  Pole 87 has an 80A capacity at 14V. Pole 87a has a 60A capacity at 14V. This relay has a metal bracket which may be removed if needed.

<<< Comparison Photo: Look here you see the difference this relay offers!

If using the below high-current relay plug socket, you will need two (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals and three (3) large .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals. The bigger terminals are for the the high current input and output. .250 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available above
.375 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available below.  

This heavy duty relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one.  An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a.  This is known as a "Changeover" Relay.  With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF".  Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.

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HELLA High Current 70 Amp 4-pole Relay
This is a special high current 4-pole relay that you may use for any HIGH CURRENT 12V device, such as heavy duty cooling fans (Ford Taurus, Lincoln Mark VIII, etc).

<<< Comparison Photo: Look here you see the difference this relay offers!



If using the below plug socket, this relay uses two (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals and two (2) large .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals. The bigger terminals are for the the high current input and output. .250 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available above.
.375 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available below.  

This heavy duty relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram on it similar to this one below.
Some SPST relays have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87b (or sometimes just 87). This relay has no center pin.

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5-Pole HIGH CURRENT Relay Plug Socket (Suitable for above 4 or 5-Pole High Current Relays).
This plug uses two (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals and three (3) large .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals.
.375 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay socket are available below.
Click here for tips on removing wire terminals from relay sockets.

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4-Pole HIGH CURRENT Relay Plug Socket (Suitable for above 4-Pole High Current Relay).
This plug uses two (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals and two (2) large .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals.
.375 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay socket are available below.
Click here for tips on removing wire terminals from relay sockets.

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Click photo for larger image

.375" (9.5 mm) locking Female Terminal
Hard to find large terminals for large wire sizes.
<<< TWO WIRE SIZES: fits 10-12 gauge wire (terminal on left side)
or 6-10 gauge (terminal on right side)

This .375 inch terminal is also the correct size for the
large male spade on the 240 junction box shown on the right >>>
or for the high current 70-80 amp relay plugs above. 

The 10-12 gauge type is the original size found on most Volvo 240 junction boxes >>>
More on these and other terminals: HERE

$0.75 each,   IN STOCK 


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OVERDRIVE RELAYS
3523804-A  Overdrive Relay (White)
Made in Germany by Kaehler.

Fits below models with AUTOMATIC transmission:
240 1985-1993, 240 Diesel 1985, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1992, 740 Diesel 1986, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1992, 760 1983-1987, 760 Diesel 1984-1985, 760 GLE 1988-1990, 760 Turbo 1984-1990, 780 1987-1991, 780 Turbo 1986-1990, 940 1991-1995, 940 Turbo 1991-1995.

Scroll up this page to find locations for this relay in your Volvo.
Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.
 

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1307793  Overdrive Relay (the ORANGE one)
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
For 240 1981-1984 with AUTOMATIC transmission
Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.

NLA through my sources at this time.
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1259750  BLUE Overdrive Relay
For below models with M46 MANUAL transmission.
Made in Germany by Kaehler.
240 1981-1984, 240 Diesel 1981-1984, 240 Turbo 1981-1984, 260 1981-1982, 260 Diesel 1981, 760 1984.

Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.




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3523805  RED Overdrive Relay. (Older PN 1347768).
For below models with M46 MANUAL transmission.
Original Volvo part made by Hella.

240 1985-1993, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1991, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1991, 760 1985-1986, 760 GLE 1988, 760 Turbo 1985-1990.

Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.

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3523805-A  RED Overdrive Relay. (Older PN 1347768).
For below models with M46 MANUAL transmission.
Made in Germany by Kaehler.
240 1985-1993, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1991, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1991, 760 1985-1986, 760 GLE 1988, 760 Turbo 1985-1990.
Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.
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OTHER RELAYS
3545803 Fuel Injection Relay
for 850 '93-'97, 850 GLT '95-'97, 850R '97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95.
Aftermarket Part (made by KAE).
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9434225 Fuel PUMP Relay
Genuine Volvo relay, made by Stribel.
for 850 '93-'97, 850 Turbo '94-'96, 850 GLT '97, 850R '96-'97,
850 T5 '97, 850 T5R '95, C70 '98-'04, S70 &V70 '98-'00.

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1363449 Air Conditioning Relay. Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel). 
for 240/260 all '81-'93,
740/760 all '83 to '92,
780 all '86 to '91, Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel).
NO LONGER AVAILABLE THROUGH MY SOURCES

See below relay for correct aftermarket replacement.

1363449-A Air Conditioning Relay, AC Control Relay.  Aftermarket part.
Made in Germany by Kaehler
for 240/260 all '81-'93,
740/760 all '83 to '92,
780 all '86 to '91

OUT OF STOCK
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9442468  Turn Signal Flasher (blinker) Relay.  This blinker relay is what makes your blinkers flash on and off.  The clicking you hear is the sound of this relay.  It is known to fail after many years of use.   
Fits ALL 240 series 1975-93,
All 260 1976-82, 740 '85-92, 760 '84-'87,
760 GLE '88-'90, 760 Turbo '85-'90, All 780,
850 '94, 940 '91-'95, 960 '92-'97.

Locations of 700-900 relays (pdf): http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf



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9442933 Cooling Fan Relay. Old PN 3523872.
Also used for the air pump relay on a number of late model Volvos.
Fits 1992 740, 1993-97 850, 1992-95 940, 1992-97 960, 1997-98 S90/V90, 1998-2004 C70, 1998-2000 S70/V70,


OUT OF STOCK / NLA through my sources
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9442933-A Cooling Fan Relay. Old PN 3523872.
Aftermarket part. 
Also used for the air pump relay on a number of late model Volvos.
Fits 1992 740, 1993-97 850, 1992-95 940, 1992-97 960, 1997-98 S90/V90, 1998-2004 C70, 1998-2000 S70/V70,

IN STOCK
$44.00 ea.
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240 Headlight Step Relay: Installation info - EARLY versus LATE types.
This is a Specific Problem & Solution for any 1990-93 240
Volvo 240s remained about as consistent as any car could be for their 18 year production. One change in the headlamp relay has been discovered and this small article will explain the solution.

<<< The two relays in the photo on the left are both assigned Volvo part number 1307991 (same PN as the relay I offer above). There is a small difference. The one on the LEFT is the new part available now. It is the same relay used in 240s from 1975 until approximately 1989 (this is known as the EARLY type relay). The one on the RIGHT is a little different and was used from 1990 to 1993 only. This LATER type relay is NOT available. The good news is that either relay will work for your 240. But if you have a 1990 to1993, a change is needed to fit it. The solution is noted below.
.

The differences in detail: The early relay (on the left) has two extra pins (don't worry about these, they make NO difference). The main concern is that the later relay (on the right) is turned 180 degrees on it's mounting bracket. Why Volvo made this change is beyond my imagination. This 180 degree turn presents a potential problem when using a currently available relay (EARLY type) in a 1990 to 1993 240, because twisting the wire harnesses 1/2 turn so the two plugs can be plugged in will put an unwanted strain on the wires and connectors. Bad things happen to Volvo harnesses when this is done.

The solution for this is simple. The below instructions will show you how you can remove the connector terminal inserts from the socket plugs, turn the sockets 180 degrees, and replace the terminals.

Removing and Replacing Connector Pins:
CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR LARGER IMAGES
This first photo shows the relay removed and the two socket plugs sitting there waiting for action by a Volvonut.






Here we have a typical relay socket plug used in Volvos. This isn't a headlight socket, but it'll work for this demonstration.
Notice the metal teminals inside the holes? Not all the holes always have terminals. If you're curious which ones do, or you want to see the diagram for the headlight relay, scroll down.








You'll need a tool for this part... a long sharp pick will do. A micro screwdriver can be used also. If it's not small enough on the tip, a little grinding action will fix it as I did on this pick. Even a stiff piece of piano wire can work for this step. Maybe even a paperclip.



Now, pay attention to the openings at the top of the little rectangular holes. That wide spot is where you need to insert your pick. The idea is to insert the pick in about 3/8 inch or so and push down to flatten the locking tab on the terminal that holds the terminal in the socket. In the next photos, the locking tab will be easy to see.

If your socket doesn't have a wider opening that you can see, just pay attention to the below pics to know which side of the terminal to insert the pick into.




In this photo you can see the terminal backing out of the hole.






Here's a good view of the locking tab on the terminal. After you flatten the tab and pull the terminal out of the socket, the tab may need to be pushed back out so it engages when re-inserted into the socket. It needs to be sticking out such as in this photo to work correctly.

Now turn your headlight sockets around 180 degrees and re-insert the pins, paying careful attention to inserting them in the correct order.... see the diagram below. And make sure the locking tab is on the correct side of the socket. As it gets inserted, you should hear a 'click' which tells you it has locked into place. Always make sure by giving the wire a little tug. And watch when you plug the sockets back in to see if any terminals get pushed back out.



Here is how the wire colors need to go for the headlight relay sockets.
This diagram is a view from the TOP of the sockets (the surface that connects to the relay).


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