UPDATED: May 21, 2023
Contact Below are a series of PDF maps I've created over the years just for fun. The first set of maps I made covered all 139 miles of The Mojave Road, along with some other surrounding areas. I originally did these for my own use for my trips to this great area. Then I decided to publish them for others who appreciate the Eastern Mojave. I have also created more maps for a large number of associated off-road trails in the region, adding numerous historical points of interest, landmarks, useful comments and GPS coordinates. The most recent additions are 24 pages of the McCullough Range just north of the Mojave Preserve that few people ever see. I have also added 10 pages of the eastern slope of the Providence Mountains where you can find sites such as the historic ruins of the Bonanza King Mine. All maps are offered here FREE. There are now more than 250 pages of maps here in PDF format which will make you more familiar with the Mojave Preserve and surrounding regions than any of your friends. |
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Mojave Road Stickers![]() ![]() ![]() Just something for fun. CLICK HERE. |
OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES | |
MOJAVE PRESERVE AREA ROAD CLOSURES AND ALERTS https://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/conditions.htm MOJAVE PRESERVE AREA ROAD CONDITIONS https://www.nps.gov/moja/road-conditions.htm RELEVANT MOJAVE PRESERVE AREA BLOGS AND FORUMS http://www.mdhca.org/ http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com http://theguzzler.blogspot.com http://mojaveroad.blogspot.com Expedition Portal Forum: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/index.php Expedition Portal relevant to Mojave Road area: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/forums/80-CA-and-NV Overland Bound Forum: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/ Overland Bound Forum relevant to Mojave Road region: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/forums/west-hi-ca-nv.79/ Mojave Desert Trip Logs. Many cool locations with photos: http://www.dzrtgrls.com/index.htm http://www.drivingline.com/events/off-road-trail-reviews-mojave-desert/ Mojave Preserve Maps, Camping and Trail Brochures provided by the NPS: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/maps.htm USGS Topo Map of Mojave Preserve Area. A MUST HAVE ITEM. (pdf): CA_Ivanpah_299098_1985_100000_geo (22mb pdf) Wikipedia: MOJAVE ROAD |
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GPS RESOURCES Funtreks.com Mojave Road GPX Download (look for #98, 99 and 100): https://www.funtreks.com/free-gps-waypoint-downloads#cali2nd ------------------
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The EAST MOJAVE HERITAGE TRAIL The East Mojave Heritage Trail (EMHT) was a series of trails originally organized and published by Dennis Casebier in the 1980s as an alternative to the Mojave Road to reduce its potential overuse. Four guide books were developed by Dennis to detail the comprehensive tours. These EMHT books are: Needles to Ivanpah; Ivanpah to Rocky Ridge; Rocky Ridge to Fenner; and Fenner to Needles. After the final book was published, the BLM began restricting and closing a number of wilderness areas and roads they felt needed protection from evil motor vehicles. This act closed some portions of the EMHT in 13 different places, impacting over 75 miles of the trail route. Bill Creech discovered Dennis Casebier's guidebooks. In 2019 they inspired him to reorganize and explore the EMHT track. This was detailed in the below articles, where you can find more info about the EMHT. https://cal4wheel.com/latest-news/in-gear-feature-stories/905-the-east-mojave-heritage-trail https://expeditionportal.com/the-east-mojave-heritage-trail ![]() In November 2022 a 35 minute video was made about exploring some parts of the Eastern Mojave Heritage Trail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HngmUQycB7Q Mojave Trails National Monument I don't have much information about this, but this video was posted in April 2023. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwblzNW5mVY |
Here's a scale
map of the Mojave Road region and major surrounding wagon trails,
historical
sites, etc. I patterned this map after a similar one I found in one of Dennis Casebier's books. If you aren't yet familiar with this area, this map will help to orient you to the overall layout of the eastern Mojave Desert region. Click below for larger image (0.5mb JPG) ![]() Also a high resolution PDF of this map is available below if you want to save it. >>> mojaveroadmap-db2023 (1.6mb PDF) <<< To save this PDF on your computer, right click on this link and choose "save link as": |
Original development of these Mojave Road Maps These maps were done originally for personal use during a number of 4WD trips to the area over a number of years. They have been a big help for me getting to know the layout of this large remote region and they will make you more knowledgeable about the area. These maps can mostly be considered complete, but I occasionally add more detail or updates when I find the need or when others contribute additional info. And because I know how useful these maps can be, I offer them here at NO CHARGE for other Mojave Road and Eastern Mojave Desert explorers. You may save or print these maps or load them into a folder in your phone (like I do) or in a tablet or laptop for use on the trail. Low-resolution and high-resolution PDF maps are all available below.
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MojaveRd INDEXlo (0.5mb): | Overview map of PDF trail map sets. This
is essentially the same as the
above colored "Overview of Mojave Road Area
Map
Segments." 1 page. |
MojaveRd
INDEX2
(0.07mb): |
A
text
index of numerous historical points of interest you'll find along the
way on these trails, along
with historical trivia for the region that
you'll
find interesting and helpful. 8 pages. |
MojaveRd1 Westlo (4mb): | The Mojave Road (WESTERN HALF, pages 1-14). Covers
from Camp
Cady on the western end (near
Barstow) to the crossing at
Kelbaker Road (near the Old Dad Mountains south of Baker). This part of the
Mojave Road mostly follows the Mojave River, passing through Afton
Canyon, traverses Soda Lake and passes Seventeen Mile Point near
Kelbaker Road. 14 pages, 54 miles. |
MojaveRd2 Eastlo (11mb): | The Mojave Road (EASTERN HALF, pages 15-38) Covers
from the
Kelbaker Road crossing
to the eastern end point (or beginning) at the Colorado
River. This part covers the Lava Tubes, Mojave Road Mailbox, Marl
Springs, Cedar Canyon, Government Holes, Rock Springs, Lanfair Valley,
Piute Mountains,
Fort Piute and the eastern end (or beginning) near the Colorado River. 24 pages, 85 miles. |
MojaveRd3 Marlsouthlo (1.3mb): | These trails are
directly south of Marl Springs.
The earliest wagon route taking settlers west
originally turned south from Marl Springs instead of the better known
route around the north side of the Marl Mountains. It then
went over Rocky Ridge and through Jackass Canyon and then west across
the sandy flats to Afton
Canyon.
This route was abandoned around 1859 due to harsh terrain at Rocky
Ridge and
deep
sandy areas in the canyon. Unfortunately the historic trails to the
immediately south of Marl
Springs
are now
posted
Closed to Vehicles by the NPS. Most other portions are still
accessible. 7 pages. |
MojaveRd4 Cimalo (2.3mb): | The Cima area trails are to the
north of the Mojave Road and
to the west of the New
York Mountains. It is accessed by turning north on Cima
Road (AKA Death Valley Mine Road) off of the Mojave Road (Cedar Canyon
Road) in Round Valley. One of the many prominent features to see in
this area is
the remains
of the Death Valley Mine, which
is a large mining camp with lots of mines, equipment and buildings, all
well preserved and fully accessible for sight-seers.
5 pages. |
MojaveRd5 PintoNYMtnslo (4.1mb): | These are trails to the
north of the Mojave Road and east of the above Cima maps. Included are Pinto Valley,
New York Mountains, Carruthers Canyon and surrounding areas.
Access is made by
turning north on New York
Mountain Road off of Cedar Canyon Road (Mojave Road) in Round Valley. Or turn north
on Carruthers
Canyon Road (off of Mojave Road) in Lanfair Valley. 15 pages. |
MojaveRd6
BlackCanyonRdlo
(5mb): |
These
are trails
that are near Black Canyon Road,
which runs south from the Mojave Road (near Round Valley). Black Canyon
Road runs 19 miles south to Essex Road, which can connect you to I-40 further south.
Sites include
Round Valley, Wild
Horse Canyon, Wild Horse Canyon Road Loop, Mid Hills Campground, Gold
Valley, Hole in
the Wall, Hole in the Wall Campground and Visitors Center, Woods
Mountains and Colton Hills. 13 pages. |
MojaveRd7
EastLanfairTrNolo
(2.6mb): |
This map of
the East
Lanfair Valley Trail runs north/south from Searchlight, NV to
Goffs,
CA, a total distance of about 48 trail miles. It intersects/crosses
the Mojave Road just west of the Piute Mountains. This is the NORTH half of this trail, which covers about 35 trail
miles from Searchlight, NV to the Mojave Road. 13 pages, 35 miles. |
MojaveRd8 EastLanfairTrSolo (1.3mb): | The East
Lanfair Valley Trail runs north/south from Searchlight, NV to
Goffs, CA, a total distance of about 48 trail miles. It
intersects/crosses the Mojave Road just west of the Piute Mountains. This is the SOUTH half of this trail, which covers about 13 trail
miles from the Mojave Road, past the Leiser Ray Mine ruins and ending in Goffs. 6 pages, 13 miles. |
MojaveRd9 ToughNutlo (0.7mb): | The
Tough Nut area shows some
historic
trails
east of Kelso Cima Road (about 10 miles south of the Mojave Road).
These trails lead to
three historic
gold mines; Globe Mine, Good Hope Mine and Tough Nut Mine. This area is
considered to be in the
western slope of the northern Providence Mountains. 2 pages. |
MojaveRd10 ElDoradoCañonRdlo (1mb): | The
El Dorado Cañon Road is a historic route, circa 1860s, that begins
from the
Mojave Road in Lanfair Valley and goes northeast through the Castle
Mountains to Searchlight,
Nevada and
beyond to gold mines in El Dorado Cañon near the Colorado River.
This route could also connected travelers to Las Vegas and the Salt
Lake
Trail to Utah. This
road merges with the East Lanfair
Valley Trail in the northeast corner of Lanfair Valley and it continues
north within this map MojaveRd7 East
Lanfair Tr North (beginning with Page 8). 4 pages. |
MojaveRd11 PiuteValleyTraillo (1.8mb): | The
Piute Valley Trail may
not be
the correct historical name for this section, however it serves as a
fitting description. It covers a 25 mile section from Searchlight,
Nevada south to Piute Springs and Fort Piute. This trail is the
southern portion of
the larger trail
which extends north to El Dorado Cañon and further north to Las
Vegas and connection with the Salt Lake Trail. It's existence
predates
Searchlight (originally a mining camp beginning in 1897). This trail is
believed
to possibly be as old as
the Spanish Trail. While this trail does not offer the entertainment
value of most of the others, it's just as historically important.
11 pages, 25 miles. |
MojaveRd12 KelsoTraillo (1.2mb): | The
Kelso Trail may not be
the correct historical name for this trail, however it works.
The northern end of this trail begins in the center of Jackass Canyon and runs 13 miles
to the east and south to
Kelso. This early road originally existed as part of the most
direct route between Baker and Kelso long before Kelbaker Road
existed (NOTE: Kelbaker Road did not yet exist in any form in USGS
topo maps up to 1956, so this trail was all there was back then.
Otherwise there was only an early trail between Kelso and Amboy and
Route 66 to the
south. 6 pages, 13 miles. |
MojaveRd13 Piute Detourlo (1.6mb): | PIUTE DETOUR MAP. These maps were
created after heavy rains in spring 2016 washed out parts of the
Old Cable Road (which is used as an important Mojave Road bypass). This affected
road is
between Mojave Road mile 27 and 30.9 and travels up the canyon from the
east
side of the Piute Mountains to the west side into Lanfair Valley.
If needed, this detour
toward the south
will take you 14 miles to complete. 2020
Update Note: Repairs were made, however this detour info will remain here for future use in case new washouts occur. 7 pages, 14 miles. In 2022 the NPS created a similar detour map for a new washout in the same location: https://www.nps.gov/moja/images/Mojave-Road-Detour_Piute-Road-Closure_2.png. |
MojaveRd14 Macedonialo (1.7mb): | The
Macedonia area is to the south of Mojave Road and east of Kelso-Cima
Road.
The most prominent trail is Macedonia Canyon Road, which runs 6.2 miles
east
from Kelso Cima Road to Wild Horse Canyon Road. This ares is accessible from Cedar Canyon Road or from Kelso-Cima Road. A large number of
trails, old mines and springs are illustrated in these maps and most
areas are accessible to off-roaders. Some road closures by the NPS exist in this area for some smaller trails. 6 pages. |
HIGH-RESOLUTION versions of the
above
map segments are located below. To save a map file on your computer, right click and choose "save link as." |
MojaveRd INDEX
(1.7mb): MojaveRd1 West(19mb): MojaveRd2 East (91mb): MojaveRd3 Marlsouth (8mb): MojaveRd4 Cima (16.5mb): MojaveRd5 PintoNYMtns (30mb): MojaveRd6 BlackCanyonRd (32mb): MojaveRd7 EastLanfairTrNo (13.8mb): MojaveRd8 EastLanfairTrSo (6.3mb): MojaveRd9 ToughNut (5mb): MojaveRd10 ElDoradoCañonRd (8mb): MojaveRd11 PiuteValleyTrail (22mb): MojaveRd12 KelsoTrail (5.8mb): MojaveRd13 Piute Detour (9.4mb): MojaveRd14 Macedonia (11.5mb): MojaveRd INDEX2 (0.07mb): |
These high-resolution files to the left
are higher are up to 80%
larger in size than the low-resolution maps listed above. I added
these for those of
you
with faster
internet speeds or plenty of storage space. These images are more crisp and
detailed. MojaveRd INDEX2 at the bottom is a text index of notable sites in the area. That information may also be found at the bottom of this page HERE. |
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MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero1lo (4.2mb): | Low resolution, pages 1-25. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero2lo (4mb): | Low resolution, pages 26-50. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero3lo (4.3mb): | Low resolution, pages 51-75. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero1 (25mb): | HIGH resolution, pages 1-25. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero2 (25mb): | HIGH resolution, pages 26-50. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero3 (24mb): | HIGH resolution, pages 51-75. 26 pages. |
MojaveRd16CaveMtnlo (1.5mb): | Low resolution maps. 7 pages. |
MojaveRd16CaveMtn (7mb): | HIGH resolution maps. 7 pages. |
MojaveRd17McCulloughRangelo (4.5mb): | Low resolution maps. 25 pages. |
MojaveRd17McCulloughRangehi (20mb): | HIGH resolution maps. 25 pages. |
10 pages
showing the eastern slope region of the Providence Mountains. These maps feature the eastern slope region of the Providence Mountains and surrounds the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (Mitchell Caverns) and Bonanza King Mine regions. More info about the Bonanza King Mine can be seen HERE. I have provided low resolution and high resolution PDF maps below. |
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Click for larger
image (240kb JPG)![]() |
MojaveRd18ProvidenceEastlo (2mb): | Low resolution maps. 10 pages. |
MojaveRd18ProvidenceEasthi (8.4mb): | HIGH resolution maps. 10 pages. |
A PDF
document with all of this may be found here: MojaveRd
INDEX2.pdf |
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Afton Canyon: |
Afton Canyon is often called
“the Grand
Canyon of the Mojave.” It was originally called Cave Canyon, but
acquired the current name after the railroad
stop of Afton was created at the west end of the canyon. It’s one
of the few places where the Mojave River flows above
ground in places all year round. Four-wheel drive vehicle
access is
permitted through most of the canyon, however no vehicles are allowed
in the far western end, where the “horseshoe” bend is and where the
caves are located. This closed area is
accessible on foot only. It may be bypassed in your vehicle from the
east by taking the access road along the railroad tracks and then by driving
through the Mojave River wash and under the railroad trestle. Afton Cemetery is located south of where Afton Station once sat. There are five stone-covered mounds and wooden crosses. One of the burials has been identified as that of Jose Flores, born about 1882, died May 29, 1906. Flores was one of three men who arrived at Afton Station on an early-morning train hoping to be hired on by a local mine. They were intoxicated and attacked Section Foreman Robert Y. Williams, who was severely injured in the brawl. Flores was killed. The other two were wounded, one other reportedly died later. [Reference: John V. Richardson, Jr., San Bernardino County Museum Association Quarterly, Vol. 55, Number 4, 2010]. MojaveRd1West Pages 5, 6. GPS: 35.030936,-116.366846 |
Arbuckle
Mine: |
Arbuckle Mine was a magnesite (magnesium) mine
high up on
the side of a cliff on the south side in Afton Canyon. A large piece of
timber at the mine has "Arbuckle Mine 1894" carved into it. At one time
there was an aerial tramway to carry the ore down the cliff and across
the Mojave River wash to a railroad siding. Arbuckle was later called
the
Cliffside Mine. MojaveRd1West Page 6. GPS: 35.021987,-116.350769 |
Bitter Springs: |
Bitter Springs is a large spring among a green
foliage area
(mostly mesquite and cattails) along the Salt Lake Trail (also known as
the Mormon Trail or Spanish Trail). It sits in the Mojave Desert
30 miles northeast of the Forks of the Road, a place where the Salt
Lake Trail
splits from the Mojave Road a few miles west of
Camp Cady. The name, Bitter Springs, was given for its brackish taste,
although the water was drinkable.
Bitter Springs is currently off limits to
the public because it's within the borders of present day Fort Irwin.
The Army takes steps to preserve and protect the area from
damage during training. Found in Scale Map. GPS: 35.2271814,-116.4316653 |
Bonanza King Mine: |
Bonanza King Mine is located on the eastern slope of
the
Providence Mountains. Silver was discovered in this area in 1880 and
soon a large mining operation was built. A ten-stamp mill was brought
in from San Francisco and the mine employed as many as 150 men earning
a wage of $4 per day. The nearby town of Providence was built with a
post
office, two general stores, two hotels, a saloon, a blacksmith and a
survey office. By it’s closure in
1885, 1.7 million dollars in silver had been mined (valued at over $40
million today). Ruins of the town
still remain along with stone walls of at least a dozen
buildings. MojaveRd18ProvidenceEast Page 5. GPS: 34.980278,-115.505278 |
Brannigan Mine: |
Brannigan Mine is located in the Old Dad
Mountains. It's the most
intact mine in the area. Gold was discovered at the Brannigan Mine in
1905. It was sparsely mined until 1930 when M. A. Sisley and John
Herrod found high-grade ore and relocated the claims. From
1938 to 1940 it yielded 51 tons of ore with 59 ounces of gold and 20
ounces of silver (source: Geology and Mineral Resources of the Ivanpah
Quadrangle). Despite the short mining period,
the Herrod family lived at the claim into the 1970s, with John
Herrod’s grandchildren returning in April of 2012 to visit the
site. There are still two cabins there that are maintained by a local 4WD group and are open and available for use to all 4WD explorers. They ask only that you please leave them in the same or better condition as you found them. The Oro Fino Mine is a short distance further up the same road. MojaveRd1West Page 14. GPS: 35.192629,-115.892476 |
Camp Cady: |
Camp Cady is located on the northern bank of
the Mojave
River a few miles east of Barstow. Camp Cady was established in 1860 by
Major James H. Carleton of the U.S. Army. Their purpose in the area was
to punish local Paiute Indians who had been attacking wagon train
travelers and had murdered a cattleman and some other travelers near
Bitter Springs. Bitter Springs was located on the Los Angeles to Salt
Lake Trail
and it is currently within the Fort Irwin Training Center north of
Barstow. Carlton's superior in San
Francisco, General Newman S. Clarke, ordered him to "proceed to Bitter
Springs
and chastise the Indians you find in the vicinity." The General
specifically instructed Carleton that "the punishment must fall on
those
dwelling nearest to the place of the murder or frequenting the water
courses in its vicinity." After establishing his base at Camp Cady, Carlton sent out patrols looking for hostiles. On April 22nd, 1860, on Carlton's orders, the bodies of two Native American men, who had been slain earlier by a detachment of troops on the Mojave River at the Fish Ponds, were taken to Bitter Springs. There at the site of the earlier attack, the bodies were hung from an improvised scaffold. Then after another engagement at Old Dad Mountain on May 2nd, the heads of three more natives killed were cut off, taken to Bitter Springs and placed on display with those already hung. On May 28th, following reports of the displays in the San Francisco press, General Clarke ordered Carleton to stop mutilating the dead and remove all evidence of the mutilation from public gaze. Camp Cady was eventually abandoned after 1871 when it was deemed the Paiutes had been sufficiently pacified. MojaveRd1West Page 1. GPS: 34.940513,-116.599452, 34.945869,-116.589727 |
Carruthers Canyon: |
Also spelled Caruthers Canyon, this is a
2 mile deep and a fairly wide canyon in the New York Mountains. This
location has some higher elevations from about 5300 to 6000 feet and it features
plenty of trees, rock formations and hiking trails. It’s
a popular spot for camping and can become more crowded. A few of the features: Giant Ledge
Mine (at the end of the Carruthers Canyon Trail), Phallic Rock and
Stone Table Campsite, a primitive camping area (AKA: Phallic Rock
Camp). MojaveRd5PintoNY Page 8 |
Death Valley Mine: |
Death Valley Mine is located 4
miles north of
the junction of Mojave
Road (Cedar Canyon Rd) and Cima Rd. Or about 2.5 miles southeast of
Cima. The mine is near the junction of where Cima Rd turns from north to
northwest. It's a great site to visit and
to spend an hour or two walking around and exploring. It was founded in 1906 by local Kelso resident J. L. Bright. Later that year Bright sold the mine to the Death Valley Gold Milling and Mining Company of Denver. A camp by the name of Dawson sprang up nearby, named after the Dawson brothers, who became directors of the mining company. Dawson Camp served as a community for the workers of not only the Death Valley Mine, but other mines that played a part in the Cima Mining District. In 1907, Death Valley Gold Milling and Mining Company and neighboring Arcalvada Mining and Milling Company consolidated and became known as the Death Valley-Arcalvada Consolidated Mines Company. Between the two mines, seventy-five men were employed as of November 1907. The total haul for 1907 was estimated at around 75,000 ounces of silver. The mine was active until the 1930s and later revived for a short time in the 1950s. It has been a ghost town ever since. Overall silver production was estimated at $131,000. A number of structures still survive, including a large two-story home, a small single story home, as well as a number of shops and sheds. There are also several mines with old equipment still in place. There are NO “private property” or "no trespassing" signs. There may be a gate that will keep vehicles out if it's locked, but it's often OPEN. If it's locked, then access is still ok by foot. Mining equipment litters the landscape, most of it appearing to be from the 1950s reactivation. To reach Death Valley Mine from Mojave Road (Cedar Canyon Road), turn NORTH on Cima Rd., drive 4 miles. The mine will be easily found on your right. To reach it from Cima, turn EAST onto Cima Rd. from the intersection of Kelso-Cima Rd and Morning Star Mine Rd. and drive across the RR tracks. Continue EAST for 2.5 miles and you'll see the mine on your right. MojaveRd4CIMA Page 2. GPS: 35.21861,-115.464722 |
El Dorado
Cañon Road: |
The Mojave Road intersects with
El Dorado Cañon Road in Lanfair
Valley at mile 96.1 (43.7). This intersection may be seen at MojaveRd2East
Page 27. GPS: 35.139792,-115.217798. El Dorado Cañon Road travels northeast from that intersection and then merges with the East Lanfair Valley Trail about 11 miles away in the northeast corner of Lanfair Valley. This stretch of El Dorado Cañon Road running through Lanfair Valley is nearly a straight line. It's faint in some areas, but still visible and appears mostly navigable for its entire length, although there may be parts that traverse private property. So you may need to go around at some places. At north-east corner on Lanfair Valley. Intersection with East Lanfair Valley Trail at MojaveRd7EastLanfairTrNo Page 8. GPS: 35.228664,-115.060938. This northeastern wagon route was important to travelers in the 1860s as an early route to the north. After 28 miles it would pass through the site (which eventually became a mining camp), now known as Searchlight, Nevada, founded in 1897. It then turned north to El Dorado Cañon near the Colorado River (about 28 miles north of Searchlight). Beyond El Dorado Cañon was Las Vegas where there were connections to the Salt Lake Trail. El Dorado Cañon is located in southern Clark County, Nevada (about 20 miles north of Searchlight) near the small town of Nelson. The canyon got famous for its rich silver and gold mines. There are mine tours in the area near the Techatticup Mine, one of the oldest and historically most productive mines in the area. |
Forks of the Road: |
Forks in the Road was the location where the
Salt Lake Trail split off from the Mojave Road. It’s location was a short
distance west of
Camp Cady. The trail began on the north side of the Mojave River wash
and traveled northeast to the Alvord Mountains and then to Bitter
Spring, a popular water stop for immigrants on the trail, which is now
within
the Fort Irwin military base and off limits to the public. See Scale Map. The exact location for Forks in the Road is
not currently known, but it is believed to be near Minneola Road and Cajalco Blvd
in rural East Barstow here: 34.908806,-116.768698. |
Fort Mojave: |
Fort Mojave was originally named
Camp Colorado when it was established on April 19, 1859 by U.S. Army
Lieutenant Colonel William Hoffman during the Mojave War. It was
located on the eastern bank of the Colorado River at Beale's Crossing,
near the head of the Mojave Valley in Mojave County, Arizona. The site
was recommended by Lieutenant Edward F. Beale, who had previously
explored the region. The fort was used as a base of military operations against the Mojave Indians. With 50 soldiers, Lieutenant Hoffman reportedly defeated 200 Mojave in a battle in the summer of 1859, after which hostilities with the Mojave ended. Two years later, after the start of the American Civil War, Brigadier General Edwin V. Sumner ordered the post abandoned and the buildings burned on May 28, 1861, in order to withdraw the regular troops to garrison Los Angeles against an anticipated secessionist uprising. Later that year the regulars were sent east to serve with the Union Army. On May 19, 1863, the post was rebuilt and infantry troops reassigned to protect travelers along the Mojave and Prescott road. This time the Infantry successfully cultivated friendly relations with the Mojave Indians. These volunteer soldiers also took up prospecting and established mining claims in the area and many later found they did not want to leave. Many of them would return after being mustered out after the end of the Civil War. After the end of the Indian Wars, the fort was transferred in 1890 to the Bureau of Indian Affairs. In 1935 it was transferred to the Fort Mojave Indian Reservation. The location is currently administered by the state of Arizona. MojaveRd2East Page 37. GPS: 35.044115,-114.622305 |
Fort Piute: |
Fort Piute was established in
late 1859 by U.S. Army Captain James H. Carleton. It was eventually
made a sub-post of Camp Cady. It's found near Piute Springs in the
foothills of the Piute Mountains, 23 miles west of Fort Mojave at the Colorado River. Captain Carleton originally named the post Fort Beale for Lieutenant Edward F. Beale, U.S. Navy. In 1857 to 1859, Lieutenant Beale and his caravan of camels famously explored the area for a suitable wagon road to the west. The name was later changed to Fort Piute. Fort Piute was abandoned in 1868. MojaveRd2East Page 31. GPS: 35.115020, -114.985260 |
Fred Welch Home: |
Homestead of Fred L. Welch,
circa 1914. Mojave Road at intersection with Caruthers Canyon Road. MojaveRd2East Page 26. GPS: 35.13999,-115.25584 |
Government Holes: |
Government Holes was originally named Banning’s Well. It was dug in 1859 by employees of Phineas Banning (who was
considered the "Father of the Port of Los Angeles, the founder of
Wilmington, California, and the man for whom the City of Banning,
California was named). Banning's Well was later renamed Government
Holes after U.S. solders enlarged and improved it in 1860. Even though
the plural
"Holes" is used, there is only one well. Countless early travelers have made
use of this well, but it has mostly been used for cattle
operations in the area. The most famous incident at Government Holes
occurred on
November 8, 1925, when two men, Matt Burts and J. W. "Bill" Robinson,
shot it out in a cabin there. Both were killed. MojaveRd2East Page 24. GPS: 35.149245,-115.354778 |
Hole in the Wall Campground: |
Hole in the Wall Campground is located at
about 4,300 feet elevation and surrounded by sculptured volcanic rock walls.
It has 35 campsites with areas large enough for motorhomes or trailers
and two walk-in tent sites. Facilities include pit toilets, picnic
tables, fire rings, trash cans, and drinkable water on a limited basis.
There are no utility hookups but there is a sanitary disposal
station. Campsites available on a
first-come, first-served basis. Fee info and more at the NPS campground link: https://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm. MojaveRd6BlackCanyonRd Page 4. GPS: 35.045382,-115.392908 Camping for larger groups (up to 15 to 50 people): The Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground is located across Black Canyon Road from the Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center. Fee and reservation contact info can be found in the NPS campground link above. |
Indian Petroglyphs
and Ancient Water Well: |
This is a very large collection of large
rocks on a hill which display hundreds of detailed and clear petroglyph
drawings. Also you’ll
discover a large natural stone well on the southwest side of the hill.
The site is well-preserved, with
minimal vandalism. There are a few inscriptions from early white
travelers with dates ranging from 1900 to 1919. The well still
holds water, however appearing a bit stagnant. It’s easy to miss this
place,
but worth the visit. It's only about a mile out of your way when on the
Mojave Road. MojaveRd2East Page 28. GPS: 35.145670,-115.159135 |
Indian Spring: |
You may find the road leading
east to Indian Spring off of Kelbaker Road at GPS: 35.215086,-115.876568. This intersection is about 0.7 mile north of the entrance of the lava flow split (south of Seventeen Mile Point). This is NOT the same road as Indian Springs Trail, which is a few miles south. Indian Spring can be found about 3.5 miles east of Kelbaker Road. Near MojaveRd1West Page 14. The approximate location of Indian Spring is GPS: 35.232219,-115.821186 |
Jackass Canyon: |
Before the Mojave Road as we
know it now was created, the earliest wagon route to the west in this area originally cut due south from Marl
Springs, instead of northwest, as it does now. It then crossed a large valley (now occupied by Kelbaker Road) and then went over
Rocky Ridge, through Jackass Canyon, and almost due west across the wide, flat, sandy expanse, which is now known
as Devil's Playground. This route
was abandoned around 1859 due to harsh, rocky terrain on Rocky Ridge and deep
sand in the canyon. MojaveRd3MarlSouth Page 4. GPS: 35.079913,-115.842572 |
Kelso
Depot: |
Kelso Depot was built in 1924
and was used as a railroad depot until 1962. It's a Spanish Mission
style building, with red-tile roof and graceful arches. At its peak
during World War II, the town of Kelso supported 2,000 residents. The
depot's diner, the Beanery, served customers 24 hours a day for many
years. Once slated for demolition, the depot was saved and has been
restored by the National Park Service for use as a visitor center. The
Beanery was still open until just a few years ago, but it's no longer there. GPS: 35.012148,-115.653252 |
Lanfair Valley: |
Most of the eastern Mojave was
opened to homesteading by the US government in 1910. That year,
inspired by the gospel of dry-farming techniques, and sensitive to the
potential increase in value of property with good access to
transportation, Ernest Lanfair, a merchant from Searchlight, claimed a
portion of the valley that would later bear his name. His homestead and
several others became the heart of a community along the railroad.
Migration to the area rose sharply in 1912 as word
spread free land and Lanfair's bumper crops. Settlers, referred
derisively by cattlemen as "nesters," established a post office, a
general store and a school. Further north, a settlement at Ledge had
similar amenities. A 1914 Fourth of July community barbecue, hosted by
Lanfair, counted some 400 participants. Future residents would rent
boxcars from the Santa Fe Railway, known as "immigrant cars," load all
of their possessions, and then meet the boxcar later on a
siding in Lanfair Valley. Newly arrived migrants staked and recorded
their claims and then worked to clear land, build homes and plant a
portion of the land to
meet government requirements. Many claims went back to the government
after the homesteaders failed to make sufficient improvements. Later
homesteaders would come along and take over semi-improved claims of
former residents who left before
receiving a full title to the land. When that happened, the process of
gaining
title from the government would begin again, but many of theses new
arrivals could find places with improvements and they might not have
construct a place to live from nothing. Ernest Lanfair’s home can still be seen along the Mojave Road at an intersection of an unknown road at MojaveRd2East Page 28. GPS 35.131571,-115.16512 |
Lava Tubes: |
The Mojave Desert Lava Tubes are
off of Aiken Cinder Mine Road 3 miles north of the Mojave Road. After
reaching the the lava field you can park along the road. There's a short trail leading east to a hole in the ground with a heavy steel ladder.
The ladder takes hikers down into the tubes, which can be explored.
There are a few small skylights above which light things up a little,
but bring a flashlight if you
want to explore inside away from the main hole. MojaveRd2East Page 16. GPS: 35.216348,-115.751417 |
Marl
Springs: |
Also known as Camp Marl Springs, this site was
first garrisoned as a small informal Army outpost by troops from Camp
Cady and Camp Rock Spring in October 1867. It was continuously occupied
until May 1868, when it was abandoned permanently. In 1867 the post was
reportedly surrounded by hostile Indians. During a 24 hour siege the
station had a
full test of its position. There were only three men there but they
came out with their scalps intact. In the true spirit of the West, just
at dawn a rescue column of soldiers cut through the besieging circle of
Indians to save the post. Marl Springs continued to be an important
station on the travel route across the Mojave Desert. It also served as
the site for
several trading posts. Some old deserted structures and ruins still
occupy the site. Crumbling rock walls mark the site of the old Army
post. MojaveRd2East Page 19. GPS: 35.170700,-115.647590 |
Mid Hills
Campground: |
This 26-spot campground off of Wild Horse Canyon Road is
nestled in pinyon pine and juniper trees at 5,600 feet elevation. Temperatures
are typically 10 to 15 degrees lower than at Hole in the Wall Campground
(elevation: 4,300 ft.) further to the south.
Facilities at Mid Hills include pit toilets, picnic tables, fire rings,
trash cans,
and drinkable water on a limited basis.The short road to the campground
is
not paved, but very accessible to normal vehicles. It is not recommended
for motorhomes or trailers. Campsites available on a first-come,
first-served
basis. Fee info and more can be found at the NPS campground link: https://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm. MojaveRd6BlackCanyonRd Page 6. GPS: 35.131637,-115.435568 |
Mojave Cross: |
The Mojave Desert Veterans
Memorial and cross was erected in 1934 by the Veterans of Foreign Wars
(VFW) in
honor of World War I veterans and those who were killed in action.
Riley Bembry, one of the founders of the memorial and a veteran of
World War I, took care of the cross until his death in 1984. Shortly
before his passing, he asked his friend, Henry Sandoz, to care for the
memorial. Henry and his wife, Wanda, have looked after
the cross since then. In 2001 the ACLU filed a lawsuit on behalf
of Frank Buono, a former Mojave Preserve employee, then living in
Oregon, who claimed he was offended by the cross. He argued the cross
was unconstitutional, because it
was located on government land. Lower federal courts agreed, ordering
the removal of the cross. In 2003 Congress passed a law to
transfer the property to the VFW, however the court prohibited the
transfer. Liberty Institute stepped in and filed an amicus
brief at the U.S. Supreme Court on behalf of the VFW, The American
Legion, Military Order of the Purple Heart and American Ex-Prisoners of
War. In 2010 the U.S. Supreme Court heard the case and reversed
the lower court
ruling. They declared that the law passed by Congress in 2003, allowing
the property transfer to the VFW, was constitutional. The transfer was
made in
exchange for other land in the Mojave Desert owned by Henry
Sandoz. Days after that ruling, vandals stole the cross. It was
later recovered 500 miles away and returned. Article: https://adfmedia.org/press-release/us-supreme-court-says-mojave-cross-veterans-memorial-can-stay On Cima Road 10.8 mile north of the Mojave Road. GPS: 35.314280,-115.548789 See Scale Map. |
Mojave Desert
Heritage and Cultural Association: |
The Mojave Desert Heritage and
Cultural Association is located at 37198 Lanfair Road in Goffs, CA.
Visit www.mdhca.org.
This
location features a cultural center and museum as well as the restored
Goff’s Schoolhouse, originally built in 1914. The center is open a
limited number of days each week, so be sure to check the web
page. They
can also open the facility for visiting groups with a few days advanced
notice. The center is funded through donations, so your
generosity is appreciated. |
Mojave Desert
Megaphone: |
This is one of the peculiar mysteries of
the eastern Mojave Desert. There are a lot of speculative stories on
the internet about what it is and why it was made, from a warning siren
to a gun sight to a drum or maybe just a practical joke. Or maybe just
plain art. Either way, no one seems to know how long ago it was
placed there. MojaveRd15CadyMtns-Crucero pages 12 &
13. GPS: 35.0054,-116.1964. |
Mojave Road
Mailbox: |
Be sure to stop at the Mojave
Road Mailbox at Mojave Road mile 74. This metal box and flag pole with
U.S. flag was installed in 1983 by the Friends of the Mojave Road, an
affiliate of the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Association in
Goffs, CA. Visit www.mdhca.org.
There is a register book inside the
mailbox for Mojave Road travelers to sign in, record their passing and
leave
comments. It seems the flag pole went missing in recent years, but the box is still there. MojaveRd2East Page 18 GPS: 35.185400,-115.692840 |
Nevada Southern
Railway Monument: |
A large concrete monument on the
southwestern corner of the Mohave Road and Ivanpah-Lanfair Road. A brass plaque reads the following: “Nevada Southern Railway. In January of 1893 construction of Isaac C. Blake’s Nevada Southern Railway commenced northward from Geoffs toward Manvel (later known as Barnwell) for the purpose of hauling ore from the mining districts of southeastern California and southern Nevada. It soon went bankrupt and was reorganized in 1895 as the California Eastern Railway. Six years later the line was extended north into Ivanpah Valleyand in July of 1902 was acquired by the Santa Fe Railroad. Four years later the Barnwell & Searchlight Railway was built from Barnwell to the mines at Searchlight, Nevada. After 1918 the Santa Fe abandoned part of it’s line in the Ivanpah and only ran trains beyond Barnwell when warranted by demand. Several substantial washouts and continuing unprofitability caused the Santa Fe to abandon their rails north of Goffs in 1923. Lanfair and Ivanpah Road parallel the former Southern Nevada Railway grade as it proceeds northward from Goffs, then runs directly upon it for part of the distance through the New York Mountains. Sections of the roadbed, washed out in several places, can be seen from Ivanpah and Lanfair Road. This monument has been erected on a portion of the original grade used by the N S and C E Railroads.” “Plaque dedicated October 12, 2008, by the Billy Holcomb Chapter of the Ancient and Honorable Order of E Clampus Vitus in cooperation with the Mojave Desert Heritage & Cultural Association.” MojaveRd2East Page 27. GPS: 35.13866,-115.186983 |
Old Dad Mountains: |
This mountain range received the
name “Old Dad,” after Joseph “Old Dad” Wallace, a railroad worker from
Kelso who later became a prospector. Wallace was accused of murdering
his fiancée, which prompted him to leave town. He moved to this
mountain range with a team of donkeys to prospect. MojaveRd1West Page 14, MojaveRd2East Page 15. GPS: 35.158779,-115.875728 |
Oro Fino
Mine: |
The Oro Fino Mine is one of the
earliest mines in the area. It began production in the 1890s. The
expense of moving the ore at the time is what likely shut the mine down
after a few years. The mine was reactivated in the 1930s and operated
through 1943, producing about $50,000 in gold. It’s just past the
Brannigan Mine on the same road. MojaveRd1West Page 14. |
Paymaster Mine: |
The Paymaster Mine, also known
as the Whitney Mine, was the largest producer in the Old Dad Range.
It’s most relevant years were from 1900-1914. Water was piped in from
Indian Spring and it had a mill operating in 1911. It is estimated to
have made between $50,000 and $100,000 before being shut down in 1914
due to litigation. The mine was reopened in 1930 and was active on and
off through the 1980s. MojaveRd1West Page 14. GPS: 35.199127,-115.906398 |
Penny Can: |
The Penny Can is an old can
(often several cans) hanging from a tree on the north side of the
Mojave Road
at about head level. Tradition is to leave a penny as a tongue-in-cheek
contribution to Mojave Road maintenance. According to Dennis Casebier,
when the Mojave Road was being developed for use as a recreational trail in 1983,
a can was found hanging here with a few pennies inside. Extra cans
were reportedly added after the first one became full. MojaveRd2East Page 27. GPS: 35.135488,-115.177167 |
Piute Springs: |
Piute Springs are natural
springs about 3500 feet distance up the canyon toward the west from
Fort
Piute. It's generally isolated and only accessible by foot,
since vehicle traffic is prohibited past the fort by the NPS. MojaveRd2East Pages 30, 31. GPS: 35.110825,-114.996066 |
Rock Spring: |
Camp Rock Spring was established
by the U.S. Army on December 30, 1866 as a small outpost of Camp Cady.
Water was a problem at the post. The spring was poor and irregular and
water had to be brought in from a mile west at Government Holes. It was
maintained as an army post until May 21, 1868. MojaveRd2East Page 25. GPS: 35.152830, -115.327300 |
Rocky Ridge: |
Before the Mojave Road as we
know it was created, the earliest wagon route to the west proceeded
due south from Marl Springs instead of northwest as we know it now. From there it would eventually cross
a large valley (now occupied by Kelbaker Road), then over
Rocky Ridge and through Jackass Canyon. After exiting
Jackass Canyon, the route would cross the expanse of Devil’s
Playground. This route across Devil’s Playground is nearly due west
from Jackass Canyon on a 25 mile track directly to the east end of
Afton Canyon.
This route was reportedly abandoned around 1859 due to harsh terrain on Rocky
Ridge
and deep sand in the canyon and beyond. The road down Rocky Ridge
is really no longer
visible, but you can still see the lines of stones that were moved aside
down the ridge, allowing you to see where the wagons used to go. If you want to see it, Rocky Ridge is
now easily
accessed on foot from a nearby power line road. Details here: MojaveRd3MarlSouth Page 3. GPS: 35.110814,-115.794721 |
Stray Cow Wells: |
During the Civil War the US
military spent time scouting the Mojave Desert looking for suitable
routes for moving men and supplies to the west. Captain George Price was
given such a commission and in 1864 he led a company of men from Salt
Lake City to Fort Mojave. They then traveled west to a water well called Lewis Holes.
During Captain Price’s journey, his company came upon a stray cow at a
watering hole nearby. Price's men killed and ate the cow. The
watering hole was then given the name Stray Cow Wells in commemoration of the event.
This well is located south of Searchlight, Nevada on the El Dorado Cañon Road
Trail at the California/Nevada line. MojaveRd7EastLanfairTrNo Page 5. GPS: 35.331488,-115.043951. |
The
Triangles: |
The Triangles are located on a mesa overlooking
the Mojave River Wash, on the north west side. They were created by
unknown people by removing rocks from the desert surface. They are
easily visible and may be accessed by a side road where you can climb up the
back of the mesa. There is a line of posts to prevent you from driving
too close, but you can park and walk right up to them. The Triangles are large
enough to be visible in Google Maps images. MojaveRd1West Page 3. GPS: 34.986632,-116.486365 |
Travelers Monument: |
The Travelers Monument is a fun
part of the journey on the Mojave Road. It sits near the center of Soda
Lake. Bring a large rock if you want to add to the monument. Thousands
have done so over the years. Once you arrive, you’ll get to read the
secret
plaque and receive the profound knowledge that only travelers of the
Mojave Road can know. Do not divulge this secret inscription to any unworthy non-Mojave Road Traveler. MojaveRd1West Page 10. GPS: 35.13086,-116.095365 |
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